- 30 Days
Tilicho Peak Expedition is a challenging but straightforward climb. Tilicho Peak Base Camp sits on the shore of the aqua-blue Tilicho Lake. Tilicho Peak is technically interesting as the standard route via the northwest shoulder has a mix of rock and ice leading up to steep snowfields. Tilicho Peak has little objective danger because the shoulder is very wide. The summit view is breath-taking: Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau and below, the deepest valley in the world the Kali Gandaki valley and Tilicho Lake. In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog went to Nepal to look for an approach to ascend Annapurna I. At Tilicho Lake they found a tremendous wall of rock and ice between them and the Annapurna I. In fact, it was a shoulder of rock and ice that extends in a north-northwest direction for 11km and finally drops down into Tilicho Lake. They named it the “la Grande barrier” a great barrier. Tilicho Peak is located at the end of the Great Barrier, high above the glacial Tilicho Lake. It was climbed for the first time by French climber Emanuel Schmutz via the Northwest shoulder which remains the standard climbing route.
Tilicho Peak 7134m is a difficult but manageable climb. Tilicho Peak Base Camp is located on the shores of Tilicho Lake, which is a beautiful turquoise colour. The standard route up Tilicho Peak via the northwest shoulder is technical, with a mix of rock and ice leading up to steep snowfields.
Because the shoulder of Tilicho Peak is so wide, there is little objective danger. The view from the summit is spectacular: the Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau, and below, the world’s deepest valley, the Kali Gandaki valley, and Tilicho Lake. In 1950, a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog journeyed to Nepal in search of a route to the summit of Annapurna I.
Between them and the Annapurna I at Tilicho Lake was a massive wall of rock and ice. In fact, it was a rock and ice shoulder that stretches 11 kilometres north-northwest before dropping into Tilicho Lake. It was dubbed “la Grande Barrier,” or “the Great Barrier.” Tilicho Peak rises high above the glacial Tilicho Lake at the end of the Great Barrier.
The Annapurna Region’s Peak Tilicho is located to the north of Manang. Tilicho Peak expedition is a technical and difficult climb. Most climbers consider this a technical climb that requires prior experience and a skilled Sherpa guide. Base Camp can be reached in two ways.
The Tilicho Peak expedition begins with a drive to Khudi, followed by a few days of trekking through Manang and Khansar Village to the Tilicho Base Camp. Emanuel Schmutz, a French climber, climbed Tilicho Peak for the first time via Northwest Shoulder, which stretches from Lake Tilicho’s shores.
This is a standard peak-climbing route that begins at the Base Camp (4800m) on the lake’s northwest end. The northeast ridge of Tilicho Peak, which is encircled by snow, towers majestically over the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, while the hidden pro- kingdom of Mustang is only a few miles to the north.
The climb from base camp to camp I (5800m/19,029ft.) is straightforward. Camp I is on a shelf beneath the Northwest shoulder, just above 45 degree mixed rock and ice terrain. On the shoulder, Camp II (6100m/20,013ft) is reached via 50 degree and 500m long snowfields.
Because of the shoulder’s large width, it’s also a 50deg 700m snowfield with low objective hazard and very low exposure. As you approach camp II at 6300m/20,669ft, you’ll need fixed ropes to climb Tilicho peak.
Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.
|HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR||UPPER BODY|
|Sun Cap||Thermal Wear (2-3)|
|Balaclava||Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)|
|Fleece Cap||Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)|
|Head Buff||Fleece Jacket (1)|
|Neck Gaiter||Gore-Tex Jacket (1)|
|Sun Glasses (UV Protection)||Down Jacket (1)|
|Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)||Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)|
|Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)||Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)|
|LOWER BODY||PERSONAL EQUIPMENT|
|Thermal Wear (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)|
|Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)|
|Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)||Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)|
|Gore-Tex Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam|
|Down Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Inflatable|
|Wind Proof Pants (1)||Trekking Pole|
|TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT||HANDS AND FEET|
|Helmet||Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)|
|Crampons||Wind Stopper Gloves|
|Ice Axe||Heavy Gloves (Mitten)|
|ATC Device (Descender)||Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)|
|Jumar (Ascender)||Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)|
|Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)||Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)|
|Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)||Summit Socks (2 Pairs)|
|Tape Sling (2 pcs)||Camp Booties (Down Booties)|
|Prusik Loops (1 pcs)||Base Camp Flipflop|
|Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)||Valid Passport|
|Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)||PP Size Photo (4 Copies)|
|Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)||Insurance Paper|
|Water Proof Stuff Sack||Contact Address|
|MEDICAL||EATING & DRINKING|
|Brufen / Combiflam||Energy Bar / Snacks|
|Paracetamol||Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)|
|Crepe Bandage||Spoon / Fork|
|Iodine Tincture||Bowl / Lunch box|
|Lip Balm||Hand Disinfectant|
|Quick Dry Towel||Tooth Brush|
|Poncho / Umbrella||Garbage Bag|
Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.
Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!
Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.
Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:
Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.
Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.
Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline
Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.
Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!
|Start Date||End Date||Price||Availability||Book|
The experience of climbing Ama Dablam in Nepal with Protrek Adventure was fantastic! All of our Sherpa guides were wonderful, and they went above and beyond to help us reach our goals. (All of the members reached the summit!). It was our expedition leader’s 12th summit on Ama Dablam, and I had absolute confidence in his abilities.
Protrek Adventure’s hospitality is what sets them apart from other tour operators. The people working on the ground in Kathmandu were outstanding in their professionalism and friendliness. Everything was done to ensure that our stay was enjoyable and that the amenities met high standards. Whenever we had a question, they were there to answer it promptly and patiently.
The booking process went smoothly. Prior to the trip, each of us had a one-on-one phone conversation in which we learned about the training, gear, and other aspects of the trip. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to ask personal questions regarding the trip.
During the course of the hike, we were provided with the most helpful and professional support staff that anyone could ask for. The porters and guides took excellent care of us and were extremely knowledgeable about the terrain. The best food one could expect at such high altitudes made a big difference on this trip.
Overall, I had a fantastic time on the trip, and I would absolutely recommend going with Protrek Adventure!!
After speaking with numerous tour operators in Nepal, I decided on Protrek Adventure for my Ama Dablam expedition. This trip with Protrek has been an absolute joy, and I can’t say enough good things about them. Everything was so well planned and organized from beginning to end.
Multiple emails were exchanged with Dawa in the office, and every one of my inquiries was thoroughly answered. Following the email conversations, there were more interactions on a call in which their team assisted me in sorting out and organizing all of my climbing gear.
Because Ama Dablam is a notoriously difficult and technical peak, it was critical that I double-check all of my gear before landing in Kathmandu. Pre-expedition training and preparation were made much easier for me by the Protrek team. Dawa and Viji, thank you so much for your help.
We did a lot of training at base camp, which helped us a lot for the climbing that was to come. It would not have been possible without Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, and Suren Rai, our porter. Special thanks to Sandeep for guiding us through all of the logistics and providing us with the best experience ever.
I would strongly recommend Protrek Adventure to anyone interested in peak climbing in Nepal. Their level of service, professionalism, and attention to detail made this trip the best it could have been.
This was the best adventure I’ve ever been on in Nepal. With Protrek Adventure, I did the Ama Dablam Climb in the Himalayan Mountains. When it came to planning my trip, they were the best teammates I could have asked for. The successful ascent was made possible thanks to my guide Phurba Sherpa, who also assisted with my training by leading me through each campsite.
It would have been impossible without Sandeep’s knowledge and expertise, which allowed me to go into the mountains with complete confidence. I also want to thank Dawa, Manoj, and Viji for their help before I landed in Kathmandu. You guys are amazing! See you on the next one!
I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.
Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.
I climbed Lobuche Peak in Nepal with Protrek Adventure during the autumn season. Excellent logistics, helpful staff, knowledgeable guides and a stunning mountain combine to make this one of my favourite expeditions. Highly recommend Protrek Adventure for adventures in Nepal. It was an experience I will never forget. Thank you Dawa and Nuru for the guicance and support. You guys made this adventure enjoyable from start to finish.
I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.
I booked the Island peak expedition with Protrek adventure, and they customized the itinerary for my buddy and me. They included the Everest base camp too in the plan – which was cool, and the service was extraordinary. Tea houses booked for our stay were top class accommodations, and the food was excellent. Our local guide Phurba Sherpa was very helpful and handled the trip well. I was quite impressed with the camping facilities and the equpiments provided to us. Commendable efforts at such high altitudes. Turned out to be one of the best trips I’ve ever had to Nepal.
Best expedition organizing company in Nepal. Logistics and team coordination was extraordinary! Utmost care was given to the safety of trekkers. Experience and local knowledge of the Expedition Leader is highly commendable. Our team had a truly wonderful experience in Lobuche Peak with Protrek. Thanks to the warm and welcoming staffs who made our stay in Nepal unforgettable. We would love to plan our next trip soon with you guys..!!
Did the Island peak climb with Protrek adventure. Undoubtedly the best company to book high altitude climbs. Their lead guides & sherpas are highly skilled, which made a huge difference in the expedition. Infact they motivated me during the summit push, without which i wouldn’t have made it to the summit. Thanks Phurba and Sandeep, you guys are awesome! Equipment and camp facilities are excellent. Support staff were friendly and helpful. Highly recommend Protrek for trekking and expeditions in Nepal.
Had a fantastic expedition to Lobuche Peak with the Protrek team. Don’t look any further and book them for your next Himalayan adventure. Highly professional and excellent logistics. Highly recommend them for your high altitude adventures.
Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌
Excellent team to plan your Himalayan trip with. I’m happy to climb Mera Peak with such amazing and friendly Sherpa guides. They are very organized, efficient and friendly. Awesome support and great patience. Thanks for making my very first trip a memorable one! Hope to see u guys soon again.
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