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Putha Hiunchuli Expedition

Putha Hiunchuli Expedition – A Hidden Gem Among Nepal’s 7000m Peaks

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246m), the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri range, stands as one of Nepal’s most stunning 7000m mountains. Often referred to as Dhaulagiri VII, it is a lesser-known yet highly rewarding climb for mountaineers aiming to push their limits before attempting an 8000m peak. First conquered in 1954 by the legendary explorer Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima, Putha Hiunchuli offers a thrilling yet technically manageable ascent, making it an ideal challenge for both seasoned climbers and those seeking to gain high-altitude experience. Nestled at the far end of the Dhaulagiri range, this majestic peak marks the final snow-capped giant before the landscape transitions into the arid terrain of western Nepal. Unlike its more frequently climbed counterparts, Putha Hiunchuli presents a unique blend of adventure, isolation, and breathtaking natural beauty. The expedition route traverses dramatic high cliffs, deep canyons, and remote valleys, offering an unparalleled trekking experience before reaching the German Base Camp at 4,525m. The journey begins from either Beni, a bustling trade town, or Juphal-Dunai, leading adventurers through culturally rich villages and rugged landscapes before the real climb begins. The ascent follows the northeast face, the same route pioneered by Jimmy Roberts, which is accessed via the Kaya Khola, a tributary of the Barbung Khola. This route provides a well-structured climb with varied terrain, including glaciers, ridges, and steep snow slopes, making it a perfect preparation for higher-altitude expeditions. The peak’s strategic location and manageable technical difficulty make it an excellent choice for those looking to gain valuable experience for 8000m summits in the future. Putha Hiunchuli remains an underrated gem in the world of Himalayan mountaineering, offering a rare combination of challenge, solitude, and breathtaking scenery. With its less crowded routes, stunning landscapes, and historical significance, this expedition is perfect for climbers who seek a high-altitude adventure beyond the mainstream peaks of Nepal. Whether you are an aspiring 8000m climber or an experienced mountaineer looking for a rewarding Himalayan ascent, Putha Hiunchuli promises an unforgettable journey into the heart of Nepal’s remote mountain wilderness.

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Trip Facts

Duration
30 Days
Altitude
7246M
Country
Nepal
Grade
Challenging
Season
Spring/Autumn

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  •  Small group, positive impact
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