- 17 Days
Mera with Island peak climbing offers the climb of two popular trekking peaks in the Himalayas. Climbing the twin peaks of Mera and Island in Nepal coupled with crossing the high striking and challenging Amphu Lapcha pass makes this expedition a very unique and challenging one. This is ultimately the most satisfying and demanding trekking with twin trekking peaks climbing experience in Nepal. We have professionally planned this expedition itinerary to allow every trekker to have proper acclimatization, resulting in the summit of these two trekking peaks over 6000 meters. This is an inspiring climb which is also definitely an achievable goal. Besides the trek also takes you through the remote valleys of Hinku and Imja Tse in the Everest region. Do not miss out on this wonderful opportunity to have a lifetime experience in the Himalayas with breath-taking experiences. The route descends from Mera’s summit to the Mera La, where it turns east into the Upper Hongu Valley. The rock face of Chamlang towers to the east, and Lhotse and Everest are visible directly in front of us as we follow the valley northward. We’re about to tackle the expedition’s most difficult objective, the Amphu Labtsa pass, at 5700m, once we reach the sacred Panch Pokhari Lakes. The series of ice steps leading up to the rocky crest necessitates the use of a fixed line.
The climb to Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Labtsa Pass (5700m) in Nepal’s Himalaya is the ultimate trekking and climbing challenge. Reaching the summit of one of these incredible 6000m trekking peaks is a huge accomplishment.
Two peaks over 6000 metres and one difficult high pass are included in this expedition. The Khumbu region offers a wide variety of terrain, including mountains, wilderness valleys, forests, and grasslands, as well as lodging and camping options, making it an ideal high-altitude trek for adventurers.
Despite the fact that the majority of the expedition is straightforward climbing, it is classified as strenuous because it includes two incredible peaks over 6000 metres, one technically challenging pass, and seven nights at elevations above 5100 metres.
When you’re at this altitude, even the most basic trails can be a challenge. Our expedition route to Mera Peak and Island Peak via Amphu Labtsa Pass has been meticulously planned and timed. Rest days give your body time to adjust to the altitude while you practise mountaineering skills with your Sherpa climbing guides in preparation for the next goal.
Our Mera and Island Peak Expedition begins with the easiest but highest Mera Peak, then moves on to the more difficult Amphu Labtsa Pass, and finally to the moderately difficult Island Peak, with its exposed summit. Mera Peak, at 6476 metres, is Nepal’s highest trekking peak.
Mera Peak is a great introductory climb to practise the fundamentals of high altitude climbing skills because it is neither too steep nor technically difficult. This route avoids the steep climb to Zatrwa La Pass by looping south through a beautiful, less-traveled part of the country and rejoining the at Kote, allowing for gradual acclimatisation.
On the same day, we fly to Lukla, elevation 2820 metres, and trek south to Surke, elevation 2290 metres. We follow the Inkhu River all the way to Mera Peak Base Camp, which is situated at the base of Mera’s north face. Mera La Pass is the only way to get to the high camp.
Fixed lines are only required for the last 30 or 40 metres to the summit. From the summit, you can see Mt. Everest, 8848 metres, Mt. Lhotse, 8516 metres, Mt. Cho Oyu, 8201 metres, Mt. Makalu, 8463 metres, and Mt. Kanchenjunga, 8586 metres, to name a few.
The route descends from Mera’s summit to the Mera La, where it turns east into the Upper Hongu Valley. The rock face of Chamlang towers to the east, and Lhotse and Everest are visible directly in front of us as we follow the valley northward.
We’re about to tackle the expedition’s most difficult objective, the Amphu Labtsa pass, at 5700m, once we reach the sacred Panch Pokhari Lakes. The series of ice steps leading up to the rocky crest necessitates the use of a fixed line.
To reach fixed lines for the next 300 metres of steep switchback descent on snow and rock, we must abseil 35 metres from the top. We re-enter the Khumbu valley, which appears to be busier than before after so many days in the wilderness.
We’ll set up camp in the Imja Valley and prepare to summit Island Peak, which stands at 6189 metres and is close to Lhotse imposing south face. We climb Island Peak the traditional way, directly beneath the imposing south west face of Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest mountain.
Island Peak is slightly more difficult than Mera Peak, despite its lower elevation. An easy scramble up to a rock ridge leads to a glacier, where fixed lines are used to climb the 45 degree snow slopes leading to the exposed summit ridge.
Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam are all visible from the summit. On our way back to Lukla, we follow the Chhukung Valley and join the Everest Base Camp trail at Dingboche, one of many Sherpa settlements we pass through.
Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are the best months for climbing Mera and Island Peak. However, if you are well prepared for the cold, winter can be a great time to climb. The views of the mountains are crystal clear in the crisp and cold month of December, and there are fewer trekkers around.
Protrek Adventure plans every detail of your Mera and Island Peak Expedition carefully, including lodge accommodations, guides, food, and camping equipment.
Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.
6000M EQUIPMENT LIST
|HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR||UPPER BODY|
|Sun Cap||Thermal Wear (2)|
|Balaclava||Mid Weight Trek Top (1-2)|
|Fleece Cap||Heavy Weight Trek Top (1)|
|Head Buff||Fleece Jacket (1)|
|Neck Gaiter||Gore-Tex Jacket (1)|
|Sun Glasses (UV Protection)||Down Jacket (1)|
|Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)||Trekking T-Shirts (2-3)|
|LOWER BODY||PERSONAL EQUIPMENT|
|Thermal Wear (2)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)|
|Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)||Thermarest Mattress Inflatable|
|Heavy Weight Trek Pants (1)||Headlamp (with Rechargeable Batteries)|
|Gore-Tex Pants (1)||Trekking Pole|
|TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT||HANDS AND FEET|
|Helmet||Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)|
|Crampons||Wind Stopper Gloves|
|Ice Axe||Heavy Gloves (Mitten)|
|Harness||Summit Boot (Millet/ Lasportiva/ Kailash)|
|ATC Device (Descender)||Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)|
|Jumar (Ascender)||Trekking Socks (5 Pairs)|
|Carabiner (2-3)||Summit Socks (1 Pair)|
|Prusik Loops||Base Camp Flipflop|
|Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)||Valid Passport|
|Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)||PP Size Photo (2 Copies)|
|Duffle Bag (Optional)||Insurance Paper|
|Water Proof Stuff Sack||Contact Address|
|MEDICAL||EATING & DRINKING|
|Brufen / Combiflam||Energy Bar / Snacks|
|Crepe Bandage||Spoon / Fork|
|Iodine Tincture||Bowl / Lunch box|
|Lip Balm||Hand Disinfectant|
|Quick Dry Towel||Tooth Brush|
|Poncho / Umbrella||Garbage Bag|
Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.
Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!
Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.
Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:
Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.
Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.
Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline
Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.
Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!
|Start Date||End Date||Price||Availability||Book|
|13 Sep, 2023||01 Oct, 2023||$ USD||Guaranteed||Book now|
Excellent team to plan your Himalayan trip with. I’m happy to climb Mera Peak with such amazing and friendly Sherpa guides. They are very organized, efficient and friendly. Awesome support and great patience. Thanks for making my very first trip a memorable one! Hope to see u guys soon again.
Did the Island peak climb with Protrek adventure. Undoubtedly the best company to book high altitude climbs. Their lead guides & sherpas are highly skilled, which made a huge difference in the expedition. Infact they motivated me during the summit push, without which i wouldn’t have made it to the summit. Thanks Phurba and Sandeep, you guys are awesome! Equipment and camp facilities are excellent. Support staff were friendly and helpful. Highly recommend Protrek for trekking and expeditions in Nepal.
I booked the Island peak expedition with Protrek adventure, and they customized the itinerary for my buddy and me. They included the Everest base camp too in the plan – which was cool, and the service was extraordinary. Tea houses booked for our stay were top class accommodations, and the food was excellent. Our local guide Phurba Sherpa was very helpful and handled the trip well. I was quite impressed with the camping facilities and the equpiments provided to us. Commendable efforts at such high altitudes. Turned out to be one of the best trips I’ve ever had to Nepal.
Very professional company, provided all the details well in advance. The guide and materials provided are superb which resulted in a successful ascent of Island Peak.
Fast and good service, they provided a super sherpa for us (kancha nuru sherpa) the sherpa had also done everest so more than enough experience. Next time we will definitely book with this organization again! Keep it up!
Snelle en goede service, ze verzorgde een super sherpa voor ons ( kancha nuru sherpa) de sherpa had ook everest gedaan dus meer dan genoeg evaring. De volgende keer boeken we zeker weer bij deze organisatie! Ga zo door!
I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.
Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌
After speaking to nearly 10 tour operators, both in the UK and Nepal, I settled on Protrek Adventure for my Everest Base Camp and Island Peak climb in April 2022, and did not regret it at all. The first communications I made with them were answered both promptly, and with all the information I expected and this gave me a feeling I was dealing with a professional and as importantly, a company that cares about my experience too. As this was my first trip to Himalayas, and my first 6000m plus mountain, I had many questions, but all were answered concisely by Dawa at the end of the email.
Then from landing in KTM, to leaving 20 days later the trip was faultless, and the team employed by ProTrek were skilled, experienced and always had the clients interests at heart.
We had trouble with the Lukla flight, and the field director made a special trip to help us arrange/negotiate a helicopter – just one example of the level of customer service shown by ProTrek.
So, to Sandeep the Field Director, Dawa in the office, Viji, Karma the guide, and Laxman our porter – a huge thank you for your level of service, professionalism and for making this the perfect trip.
Mein Projekt war der EBC-Trek mit anschliessender Besteigung des Island Peaks.
Ich habe mich bewusst für einen lokalen Anbieter entschieden, da so oder so klar war, dass die eigentliche Arbeit von Locals umgesetzt werden würde- da erschien es mir nicht sinnvoll, einer westlichen Agentur noch eine „Vermittlungsgebühr“ zu zahlen.
Das ist dann auch der erste Punkt: Preise!
PTA erscheint im Vergleich zu anderen sehr günstig- das freut natürlich den Geldbeutel. Merkt man das negativ? Auf keinen Fall!!
Das Personal/ der Kontakt:
Alle generellen Anfragen wurden bei Instagram schnell und freundlich und umfassend beantwortet. Nachdem es dann konkreter wurde, gab es dazu noch Mailverkehr.
Ca. 10 Tage vor Start der Reise gab es ein langes Telefonat, in dem Platz für alle Fragen war, in dem es viele, gute Hinweise gab und in dem die Packliste noch mal durchgesprochen wurde- in aller Ruhe.
Vor Ort wird man am Flughafen abgeholt und freundlich begrüßt- und dann ins Hôtel gebracht.
Wir hatten etwas Trouble mit dem domestischen Transfer- auch hier hat man sich sofort gekümmert!
Ab Lukla dann waren wir in den zuverlässigen und freundlichen Händen von Karma Sherpa und unserem Porter Laxman Rai. Wir wurden sehr sehr zuvorkommend behandelt, aufmerksam, freundlich und bemüht. Alle gesundheitlichen Punkte wurden regelmäßig abgefragt und kontrolliert. Nachdem wir klar gemacht hatten, dass wir „nicht solche Klienten“ sind, entwickelte sich sogar ein wirklich freundschaftlicher, humoriger Umgang, geprägt von echtem, zwischenmenschlichen Interesse.
Ohne die Leistung der Helfer vor Ort, wären wir „Westler“ gar nicht in der Lage, diese Dinge so zu erleben, wie wir es können…! Vielleicht kommt man noch ohne einen Guide aus, wenn man sich beim 2., 3. oder 4. Besuch dann gut auskennt, aber ohne die Porter, die mühelos das 3-4fache des eigenen Gepäcks tragen und dabei immer noch freundlich und höflich sind- und deutlich schneller als man selber- müsste man sich schon sehr sehr einschränken. Aber auch unser Sherpa/Guide hat uns immer wieder Gewicht abgenommen, bei zig Handgriffen geholfen und uns das Gefühl gegeben, gut aufgehoben zu sein.
Damit man sieht, dass es eben keine Scheinfirma ist, wo man dann am Flughafen ankommt, nachdem man gezahlt hat & plötzlich alleine in Kathmandu steht, wird hier nur eine Anzahlung geleistet. Der Rest wird nach Anreise gezahlt.
Natürlich ist dies kein Luxusurlaub, das sollte jedem klar sein! Dennoch werden die Lodges sehr bewusst ausgesucht, dort wo es möglich ist, wird eine höhere Zimmerkategorie gewählt. Ich war zu jedem Zeitpunkt zufrieden! Das Essen in den Lodges war super, schmackhaft, nahrhaft und immer genug!
Organisation des Treks:
Der gesamte Ablauf ist durchdacht organisiert. Die Höhen-Sprünge sind bewusst gestaltet, es gibt weitere „Hikes“ an den „Ruhetagen“ zur Akklimatisierung, nach denen dann jeweils „tief“ geschlafen wird. Obwohl man sich als Gruppe bewegt, gab es immer die Möglichkeit, sein eigenes Tempo zu wählen, egal ob schneller oder langsamer. Außerdem wurde zu jedem Zeitpunkt respektiert, wenn man einfach eine Weile „für sich selber“ in Bewegung war, mit seinen Gedanken alleine. Die täglichen Strecken sind absolut darstellbar – jeden Abend gut es ein kurzes Briefing für den nächsten Tag. Die Strecken auf dem Abstieg sind etwas länger, jedoch bewegt man sich hier ja überwiegend „bergab“ und ist bereits akklimatisiert und auch gewöhnt, viel zu laufen.
Organisation des Bergsteigens:
Ordentliches, gut organisiertes Basislager, bequeme Umsetzung der Schlafmöglichkeit! Auch hier vollständige und leckere Verpflegung. Der zugebuchte Climbing Sherpa war sehr erfahren, entspannt und dennoch umsichtig. Speziell im Abstieg, sehr erschöpft und etwas angeschlagen, war Phurba Sherpa „überall“, sehr nah an der Person und sehr vorausschauend.
Ich würde jederzeit wieder mit Protrek Adventure auf Tour gehen.
I did the EBC trek with Island Peak. From Kathmandu Protrek took complete care of us. They have amazing, knowledgeable guides and support team. Would recommend them to anyone looking to do a trek or peak in Nepal!
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