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Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition is one of the harder and technical eight-thousanders and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Makalu expeditions are difficult because the mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that make the climbing Makalu very open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. While there have been many a Makalu Expedition, it is the only Nepalese 8,000m peak which is yet to see success in climbing Makalu in true winter conditions. At 8464 meters, Mount Makalu is the 5th highest mountain in the world and is located just 20 kilometers from Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park, which is a natural wonder on its own. Mount Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955, in by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone, and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. Over the following years, mountaineers climbed over the south-east ridge, the West Pillar route. Mount Makalu is considered one of the toughest mountains to climb. Although many Sherpas climbed the mountain in the 1950s, they were Indian nationals and it was only on 1st May 1978, that Ang Chepal Sherpa became the first Nepali citizen to summit the peak. Still, it is a relatively less attempted mountain of Nepal. So far, the number of individual climbers who have attempted Makalu is only some 300+. Therefore, if you are going to attempt the Makalu, you need to have a lot of mountaineering experience including one attempt on an 8,000 meter before.

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Trip Facts

Duration
42 Days
Altitude
8464M
Country
Nepal
Grade
Extreme
Season
Spring/Autumn

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