- 58 Days
Makalu Expedition is one of the harder and technical eight-thousanders and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Makalu expeditions are difficult because the mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that make the climbing Makalu very open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. While there have been many a Makalu Expedition, it is the only Nepalese 8,000m peak which is yet to see success in climbing Makalu in true winter conditions. At 8464 meters, Mount Makalu is the 5th highest mountain in the world and is located just 20 kilometers from Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park, which is a natural wonder on its own. Mount Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955, in by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone, and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. Over the following years, mountaineers climbed over the south-east ridge, the West Pillar route. Mount Makalu is considered one of the toughest mountains to climb. Although many Sherpas climbed the mountain in the 1950s, they were Indian nationals and it was only on 1st May 1978, that Ang Chepal Sherpa became the first Nepali citizen to summit the peak. Still, it is a relatively less attempted mountain of Nepal. So far, the number of individual climbers who have attempted Makalu is only some 300+. Therefore, if you are going to attempt the Makalu, you need to have a lot of mountaineering experience including one attempt on an 8,000 meter before.
Mt. Makalu is a pyramid-shaped mountain in Nepal that is the world’s fifth highest mountain (8464m) and is located 12 miles southeast of Mt. Everest. The summit ridge, which is located on the Nepal-Tibet border, also serves as a demarcation point for the Nepal-Tibet border.
On May 15, 1955, Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco attempted the first ascent of one of the world’s most difficult mountains. The Makalu Expedition is usually 42 days long. 21 days are set aside for climbing and the remaining days are set aside for trekking.
The expedition begins with a flight to Tumlingtar, which is only 920 metres above sea level. The trail passes through the narrow gorges of the Arun Valley, rhododendron forest, and rises into a high alpine region in just 10 days, leaving the subtropical valley behind.
En route to and from the base camp, your eyes get a chance to feast on the incredible diversity of flora, fauna, and the pristine culture of the local people. The ascent follows the southeast ridge past the southeast peak. The Makalu base camp is located at 4870 metres above sea level.
Three high camps are located above the base camp: camp I at 6500 metres, camp II at 7300 metres, and camp III at 7900 metres. C1 and C2 are located at the base of the southeast peak ridge, while C3 is located at the start of the south east ridge.
From 5800m to 6100m and 6500m to 7500m, the climb is moderately technical with exposure on the southeast ridge and requires some fixed rope set-up. We climb into the hanging ice fall from the base of the West Face to the right part of the ice-fall.
The trail now heads towards the 7400m high ice-rock wall from the plateau above the ice-fall. The summit’s final section requires technical rock climbing. The top of the mountain welcomes you with a breathtaking view of the surrounding area.
From Kathmandu to the summit, our standard package ensures comprehensive mountaineering logistic service. In Kathmandu, the company arranges bed and breakfast; however, full board (meals and lodging) is provided in a teahouse during the trek and in a tented camp during the climb.
Climbing and trekking guides are English-speaking, trained, licenced, and experienced. Protrek Adventure will arrange all necessary permits, climbing documents, and travel logistics, including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by the Climbers.
The company will also arrange for dining tents, expedition quality personal tents, kitchen tents, toilet facilities, shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff. In addition, while on the mountain, we provide a satellite phone, internet access, hand-held radios for communication between high and base camps, and a solar panel to charge batteries. The best times to climb Mt. Makalu is in late spring and autumn.
Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.
|HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR||UPPER BODY|
|Sun Cap||Thermal Wear (2-3)|
|Balaclava||Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)|
|Fleece Cap||Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)|
|Head Buff||Fleece Jacket (1)|
|Neck Gaiter||Gore-Tex Jacket (1)|
|Sun Glasses (UV Protection)||Down Jacket (1)|
|Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)||Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)|
|Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)||Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)|
|LOWER BODY||PERSONAL EQUIPMENT|
|Thermal Wear (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)|
|Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)|
|Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)||Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)|
|Gore-Tex Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam|
|Down Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Inflatable|
|Wind Proof Pants (1)||Trekking Pole|
|TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT||HANDS AND FEET|
|Helmet||Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)|
|Crampons||Wind Stopper Gloves|
|Ice Axe||Heavy Gloves (Mitten)|
|ATC Device (Descender)||Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)|
|Jumar (Ascender)||Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)|
|Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)||Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)|
|Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)||Summit Socks (2 Pairs)|
|Tape Sling (2 pcs)||Camp Booties (Down Booties)|
|Prusik Loops (1 pcs)||Base Camp Flipflop|
|Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)||Valid Passport|
|Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)||PP Size Photo (4 Copies)|
|Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)||Insurance Paper|
|Water Proof Stuff Sack||Contact Address|
|MEDICAL||EATING & DRINKING|
|Brufen / Combiflam||Energy Bar / Snacks|
|Paracetamol||Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)|
|Crepe Bandage||Spoon / Fork|
|Iodine Tincture||Bowl / Lunch box|
|Lip Balm||Hand Disinfectant|
|Quick Dry Towel||Tooth Brush|
|Poncho / Umbrella||Garbage Bag|
Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.
Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!
Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.
Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:
Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.
Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.
Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline
Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.
Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!
|Start Date||End Date||Price||Availability||Book|
|05 Apr, 2023||16 May, 2023||$ USD||Available||Book now|
Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.
I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.
I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.
I climbed Lobuche Peak in Nepal with Protrek Adventure during the autumn season. Excellent logistics, helpful staff, knowledgeable guides and a stunning mountain combine to make this one of my favourite expeditions. Highly recommend Protrek Adventure for adventures in Nepal. It was an experience I will never forget. Thank you Dawa and Nuru for the guicance and support. You guys made this adventure enjoyable from start to finish.
Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌
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