Lhotse Expedition

(based on 8 reviews)

Lhotse Expedition offers a challenging yet rewarding ascent to the fourth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,516m (27,940ft). Situated on the border of Tibet and Nepal, Lhotse is an extension of the Everest massif, with its long east-west crest lying immediately south of Mount Everest. The two peaks are connected by the South Col, a high-altitude ridge that never drops below 8,000m (26,247ft), making it one of the most demanding climbing routes in the Himalayas. Lhotse has three distinct summits: Lhotse Main (8,516m), Lhotse Shar (8,383m), and Lhotse Middle or East (8,413m). Despite its close proximity to Everest, Lhotse was initially overlooked by climbers and was often mistaken as just the south peak of the Everest massif. It wasn’t until after Everest was successfully summited that serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse as an independent peak.

The first successful ascent of Lhotse Main was made in 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger, who were part of a Swiss expedition. Later, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter became the first to summit Lhotse Shar on December 5, 1979, via the Southeast Ridge. Lhotse’s West Face is marked by a defining feature known as the Lhotse Couloir, a deep, icy gully that serves as the final and most technical section of the climb. The conditions of the Lhotse Couloir vary depending on the weather and seasonal snowfall, making it one of the most crucial challenges for climbers attempting the summit.

The route to the summit follows the classic South Col route, progressing through the Khumbu Icefall, one of the most dangerous sections due to its shifting ice blocks and deep crevasses. Climbers must navigate through towering seracs and ice ridges before reaching Camp 1 (6,065m/19,900ft), which is situated at the top of the Khumbu Icefall and surrounded by massive glacial crevasses. From here, the route continues along a lateral moraine to the West Ridge, offering breathtaking close-up views of Lhotse’s imposing face, making it an ideal spot for Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft).

Beyond Camp 2, climbers ascend towards the Lhotse Wall, a steep glacier-covered face that requires fixed ropes and technical ice-climbing skills to navigate safely. This section leads to Camp 3 (7,200m/23,600ft), where climbers prepare for the high-altitude challenges ahead. Further up, the route approaches Camp 4 (7,850m/25,750ft), located near the South Col, from where the final summit push begins. The last section is a steep, technical ascent through the Lhotse Couloir, requiring extreme endurance and skill to navigate the icy slopes and exposed rock sections leading to the summit of Lhotse.

Standing atop 8,516m, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Everest, Nuptse, Makalu, and the vast expanse of the Himalayan range. The descent follows the same route, requiring careful navigation through the treacherous terrain before returning to Lhotse Base Camp. The Lhotse Expedition remains one of the most challenging yet exhilarating high-altitude climbs, attracting experienced mountaineers seeking the thrill of summiting one of the world’s highest peaks.

Trip Overview : Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest peak (8,516m), is located 3 kilometres south of Mt. Everest. It is actually a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col. Lhotse literally translates to “South Peak ” in Tibetan.

On May 18, 1956, the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger became the first to climb the peak, which is located on the border between Tibet and Nepal’s Khumbu region. Lhotse is well-known for its spectacular south face.

The peak is rarely attempted due to the extremely difficult climb. The Expedition to Mount Lhotse: The expedition typically takes 46 days to complete, with 30 days set aside for climbing. The expedition begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we will trek alongside the Khumbu glacier all the way to the Everest Base Camp (Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest shares the same base camp) while taking in the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture, and hospitality.

The Lhotse expedition not only shares the base camp with the Everest expedition, but also the length of the route to Everest’s Camp 4 up to the south col. Due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs, and a high objective danger of falling ice, the climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb.

Although the route is technically demanding once past the Khumbu Icefall, it poses less objective danger. On top of the Khumbu Icefall, the first camp is located. Camp II (at 6,752m) is situated in a lateral moraine near the west ridge’s bottom. The view of Lhotse from this vantage point is breathtaking. Before one can enjoy this view, however, one must battle flat glaciers and crevasses.

On a small ledge on the Lhotse wall, Camp III (7,100m) is located. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 begins with a traverse of the glacier, followed by 600 metres on a compact snow field. The final camp is Camp IV (at 7,850m), which is located near the south col. With the help of fixed ropes, Camp 4 is reached from Camp 3 via two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur.

The final push to the summit from camp 4 is up a steep narrow gully with packed snow, ice, and some rock. From the top, the view of the surrounding area is extremely rewarding. Protrek Adventure is committed to providing all of the services necessary for a successful climb.

To name a few, full board (meal and lodging), necessary transportation, experienced sherpas, guides, and crew members with wilderness medical training, permanent base camp, experienced expedition cooks and support staff, solar electricity, internet facility, satellite phone, and professional, reliable weather forecast service are just a few.

During the trek, lodging will be provided in lodges, and during the climb, tents will be provided. Our itinerary also ensures that you get the necessary acclimatisation. The Spring season is ideal for planning this trip. Get in touch with our friendly staff and plan your adventure in the Khumbu region.

itinerary

Day 01 - Arrive at Kathmandu (1400m/4590ft). Overnight at hotel

Upon your arrival in the vibrant city of Kathmandu, you will be welcomed by our team and escorted to your hotel. Later, you’ll attend a detailed briefing session with our expedition leader, who will provide crucial insights about the upcoming Lhotse Expedition. This day is dedicated to trek preparation, ensuring that all gear and equipment are in place before the journey begins. If you arrive early, take the opportunity to explore Kathmandu’s rich cultural heritage, bustling streets, and lively markets filled with tantalizing aromas and vivid colors. Visit iconic landmarks such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, or the historic Kathmandu Durbar Square. Strolling through the city's narrow alleys, you’ll witness a blend of ancient traditions and modern life, set against the stunning backdrop of the surrounding hills. After the briefing, our expedition leader will assist you in finalizing your gear and may recommend any necessary purchases or rentals to ensure you are well-equipped for the challenging ascent. Take this day to rest, prepare, and immerse yourself in the unique energy of Kathmandu before embarking on this extraordinary adventure to Lhotse, the world's fourth-highest peak.

Day 02 - Kathmandu – Official procedures and Expedition Arrangements

In Kathmandu, the final preparations for the Lhotse Expedition take place, ensuring that all official procedures and logistical arrangements are in order. One of the most important tasks is obtaining the climbing permit from the Department of Tourism, a mandatory requirement for the expedition. The team conducts a thorough gear inspection, ensuring that all essential equipment is ready for the climb. If any additional gear is needed, climbers have the opportunity to purchase or rent high-quality mountaineering equipment from Kathmandu’s specialized outdoor stores. Beyond the preparations, Kathmandu offers a rich cultural experience, with its vibrant streets, bustling markets, and historic landmarks such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, and Pashupatinath Temple. Exploring the city provides a fascinating glimpse into Nepal’s unique traditions and heritage. In the evening, a welcome dinner at a traditional Nepali restaurant brings the team together, offering a chance to connect with fellow climbers while enjoying authentic local cuisine. This day plays a crucial role in finalizing logistics and setting the stage for the challenging ascent of Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak.

Day 03 - Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2860m/9383ft). Trek to Phakding (2610m/8560ft)

The journey to the Lhotse Expedition begins with an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,853m/9,360ft), the gateway to the Khumbu Region and the starting point of the trek. The team departs around 5 AM for Kathmandu Airport, where a thrilling flight awaits. This short yet breathtaking journey offers stunning aerial views of the Himalayas, including the first glimpse of Mount Everest. Flying over the Kathmandu Valley, the route provides mesmerizing sights of rolling hills and snow-capped peaks, making this one of the most scenic flights in the world. Upon landing in Lukla, the trek officially begins, leading through picturesque landscapes, charming Sherpa villages, and suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River, which flows through the entire Khumbu region. The first stop of the trek is either Phakding (2,600m/8,500ft) or further up to Monjo (2,850m/9,350ft), both nestled along the riverbanks. These villages are part of the Everest Base Camp trekking route, offering well-built tea houses and a glimpse into the local way of life. The journey through this trail not only sets the pace for the expedition but also introduces trekkers to the incredible beauty and culture of the Everest region.

Day 04 - Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)

The trek continues along the Dudh Koshi River, following a scenic trail through lush forests and charming Sherpa villages. Along the way, friendly local children can often be seen greeting trekkers as they pass through the small settlements. The route crosses the Dudh Koshi River twice via sturdy suspension bridges before reaching Monjo, the official entry point to Sagarmatha National Park. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to diverse flora, fauna, and breathtaking mountain landscapes. From Monjo, the trail ascends gradually, leading to a high suspension bridge at the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers. After crossing, the climb becomes steeper, requiring nearly two hours of steady hiking up the famous Namche Hill. Upon reaching Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft), the heart of the Khumbu Region, trekkers are welcomed by the vibrant atmosphere of this bustling trading hub. Namche is a key commercial center where Tibetan traders bring goods across the border, offering an opportunity to explore the local market filled with authentic Tibetan artifacts, handicrafts, and mountaineering gear. The surrounding panorama is equally mesmerizing, with towering peaks such as Kangtega and Thamserku dominating the skyline. This stop allows trekkers to acclimate while soaking in the culture, history, and breathtaking mountain views before continuing the journey toward Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 05 - Namche Bazaar - Acclimatization and rest day

Acclimatization is a crucial part of the Lhotse Expedition, allowing the body to adjust to the decreasing oxygen levels at higher altitudes. Following the principle of "climb high, sleep low," the day is dedicated to gradual elevation gain before returning to a lower altitude for rest. This process enhances adaptation and reduces the risk of altitude sickness, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable ascent. A steady pace is essential, allowing the body to naturally acclimatize without unnecessary strain. As the trek progresses, the route offers breathtaking views of Kwangde (6,380m/20,930ft), Thamserku (6,608m/21,680ft), and Kangtega (6,685m/21,932ft), showcasing the beauty of the Khumbu region. Climbing further to an altitude of 3,810m (12,500ft) reveals stunning panoramic sights of Lhotse (8,516m/27,605ft), Nuptse (7,861m/25,790ft), Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,493ft), and even Mount Everest (8,848m/29,029ft). These awe-inspiring Himalayan giants create a surreal backdrop, reinforcing the excitement and challenge of the journey ahead. Acclimatization days are vital in high-altitude expeditions, ensuring trekkers are well-prepared for the demanding climb toward Lhotse Base Camp and beyond.

Day 06 - Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3870m/12,700ft)

The trail from Namche Bazaar follows the Everest Base Camp route, winding along the mountainside with breathtaking views of the Dudh Koshi River below. As the path ascends, stunning vistas of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam come into sight, offering an unforgettable glimpse of the towering Himalayan peaks. The trek passes through several Sherpa villages, with traditional tea houses lining the route, before crossing the Dudh Koshi River once again. A well-deserved break at the designated lunch stop provides time to rest and refuel before tackling a steep, zig-zagging ascent toward Tengboche. The climb takes approximately two hours, offering ever-expanding views of the surrounding mountains. Tengboche (3,867m/12,687ft) is home to the renowned Tengboche Monastery, the largest and most significant monastery in the Khumbu region. The serene atmosphere and spiritual presence make it a remarkable stop along the journey. Plenty of time is available to explore the monastery, take in the majestic Himalayan scenery, and experience the peaceful surroundings. An overnight stay in a newly built lodge across from the monastery provides comfort and rest before continuing the expedition toward Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 07 - Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft)

The trek from Tengboche to Dingboche begins with a descent through beautiful rhododendron forests, leading to a suspension bridge just beyond Tengboche. The trail gradually follows the valley, offering spectacular views of Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic peaks in the Khumbu region. After about an hour of hiking, the route reaches Pangboche, a traditional Sherpa village that provides an excellent vantage point for observing the towering Himalayan peaks. Continuing along the valley, the path crosses the river once again before ascending into the Imja Valley, where the landscape opens up to reveal Dingboche (4,410m/14,465ft), a picturesque high-altitude settlement surrounded by rugged mountains. The breathtaking scenery, with its panoramic views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam, makes this an unforgettable stop along the Lhotse Expedition route. Dingboche offers several comfortable lodges, small bakeries, and even limited internet access, providing a brief connection to the outside world. Staying well-hydrated is crucial at this altitude, helping with acclimatization and ensuring a smoother journey ahead. The remainder of the day is dedicated to rest, allowing the body to adjust before continuing the ascent toward Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 08 - Dingboche – Rest and Acclimatization day

Acclimatization is a crucial part of the Lhotse Expedition, and Dingboche provides the perfect setting for adjusting to higher altitudes. A recommended hike leads up to the ridge overlooking the village or further to Chukung Village, offering stunning panoramic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Chukung Peak, and Imja Tse (6,189m). Both the valley and the ridge above the camp present incredible opportunities to capture breathtaking scenery. The surrounding landscape is dominated by massive glaciers stretching beneath towering cliffs that rise an astonishing 3,500 meters, creating a dramatic and awe-inspiring setting. This rest and acclimatization day is essential for adapting to the thin air, ensuring better endurance and performance for the climb ahead. Spending time at higher elevations before descending back to Dingboche follows the principle of "climb high, sleep low," aiding in altitude adaptation. With spectacular views, fresh mountain air, and a steady pace, this acclimatization day plays a vital role in preparing for the next stages of the journey toward Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 09 - Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft)

As the Lhotse Expedition progresses beyond Dingboche, altitude gain becomes more noticeable, making a slow and steady pace essential for acclimatization. The landscape undergoes a dramatic transformation, shifting from lush slopes to a barren, rocky terrain as the trek moves above the treeline. Towering peaks like Cholatse and Lobuche come into view, standing against the stark contrast of the rugged surroundings. The trail ascends further along the Dugla Ridge, leading toward the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier, where the scenery becomes even more striking. Along the way, rock cairns and memorials stand in tribute to mountaineers who attempted some of the world's highest peaks, including Mount Everest. The air grows thinner, and temperatures drop, making proper layering crucial against the cold and exposed mountain winds. As the trek continues along the moraine, breathtaking views of the Everest Base Camp trail unfold, offering stunning sights of Nuptse and Pumori. The surrounding peaks take on an ethereal glow at sunset, with Nuptse in particular offering a spectacular golden-hour view. This challenging yet awe-inspiring section of the expedition brings trekkers closer to the heart of the Himalayas, preparing them for the final approach toward Lhotse Base Camp.

Day 10 - Trek from Lobuche to Everest Base Camp (5365m/17,600ft)

An early start sets the course toward Everest Base Camp, a significant milestone in the Lhotse Expedition. The trail gradually ascends through rugged terrain, leading to Gorakshep (5,180m/17,126ft), the historic site of the 1953 Everest Expedition’s base camp. After a brief stop to refill water bottles and rest, the journey continues along the famous Everest Base Camp trail, where the final stretch offers a sense of excitement and accomplishment. Upon reaching Everest Base Camp, the surroundings are truly awe-inspiring, with the immense Khumbu Icefall dominating the landscape. Climbers arriving between March and May have the unique opportunity to witness and interact with expedition teams preparing for their ascent of Mount Everest, adding to the rich mountaineering atmosphere. Exploring the base camp area provides breathtaking views of the towering peaks and a closer look at the challenging route that lies ahead. This moment marks a key point in the expedition, offering both reflection and anticipation as the journey progresses deeper into the Khumbu region, bringing climbers closer to Lhotse Base Camp and the ultimate summit attempt.

Day 11 to Day 40 - Mount Lhotse (8516m/27,970ft) Climbing and Summit period.

Days 11 to 40 mark the most critical phase of the Lhotse Expedition, dedicated to rotation cycles, acclimatization, and the final summit push to the towering 8,516m (27,970ft) peak. The climbing period follows a structured approach, allowing climbers to gradually adapt to extreme altitudes while increasing their endurance for the final ascent. The strategy involves multiple rotations between higher camps and base camp, ensuring optimal acclimatization before the summit attempt. The route to the summit follows the standard Lhotse South Face approach, progressing through the Khumbu Icefall and climbing toward Camp 1 (6,065m/19,900ft), situated above the icefall. From here, climbers move to Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft) in the Western Cwm, a relatively sheltered area offering spectacular views of Everest, Nuptse, and surrounding peaks. Camp 3 (7,200m/23,600ft) is positioned on the steep Lhotse Face, requiring technical climbing with fixed ropes to ascend safely. Beyond this, the final high camp, Camp 4 (7,850m/25,750ft), serves as the launching point for the summit push. The summit bid is carefully planned, taking advantage of the best possible weather window for a safe and successful ascent. Climbers begin their final push in the early hours, making their way through the steep Lhotse Couloir, the defining feature of the route. The final section is an exhilarating yet demanding climb, leading to the summit of Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain in the world. Standing atop 8,516m (27,970ft) offers breathtaking panoramic views of the entire Himalayan range, with Everest towering nearby. After reaching the summit, climbers begin a careful descent, returning to lower camps and eventually Lhotse Base Camp, marking the completion of this extraordinary high-altitude challenge. The rotation and climbing strategy plays a vital role in ensuring safety, maximizing success rates, and preparing mountaineers for the extreme conditions of Lhotse’s summit climb.

Day 41 - Trek from Everest Base Camp to Pheriche (4370m/14,340ft)

The descent from Everest Base Camp begins with a trek toward Pheriche (4,370m/14,340ft), a crucial stop on the return journey of the Lhotse Expedition. Following the familiar route, the trail leads back through the Khumbu Glacier moraines and the rocky terrain of Gorakshep, gradually losing altitude as it winds down the valley. The change in elevation brings a noticeable increase in oxygen levels, providing much-needed relief after the challenging high-altitude climb. The path retraces the stunning landscapes of Lobuche and Dugla, passing through memorial sites dedicated to climbers who attempted Everest and Lhotse. As the trek continues, the landscape transitions from barren, glacial terrain back to alpine meadows and yak pastures, offering a refreshing contrast to the rugged mountain slopes above. Pheriche, a small village nestled in the Khumbu Valley, is known for its high-altitude medical center, which serves trekkers and climbers throughout the season. With comfortable tea houses, warm meals, and stunning views of Ama Dablam, Tobuche, and Cholatse, Pheriche provides the perfect resting point before continuing the descent. The trek from Everest Base Camp to Pheriche is not only a physical transition but also a moment to reflect on the Lhotse summit experience, soaking in the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas on the way down.

Day 42 - Trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)

The trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar follows a familiar yet long route, requiring an early morning start to cover the distance comfortably. The trail descends gradually, passing through Tengboche, offering stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. A short ascent before reaching Tengboche Monastery and another climb after Phungi Thanga add some final challenges to the descent. As the altitude drops, the air feels richer in oxygen, making the walk more refreshing and enjoyable. The path winds through rhododendron forests, traditional Sherpa villages, and high suspension bridges, capturing the essence of the Khumbu region one last time. Reaching Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,286ft) marks an important moment in the Lhotse Expedition, as climbers gather to celebrate their achievement. The lively town, known as the gateway to Everest, offers a variety of cafés, bakeries, and restaurants, making it the perfect place to relax and enjoy a well-earned break with teammates. This stop is not just about rest but also a time to reflect on the incredible journey through the world's highest mountains before continuing the descent toward Lukla.

Day 43 - Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2860m/9383ft)

The trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding features a significant descent, offering a final opportunity to capture breathtaking views of the Himalayan giants, including Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam, before they fade into the distance. If the weather is clear, the trail provides stunning photo opportunities, allowing trekkers to cherish their last glimpses of these legendary peaks. The familiar route winds through forests, suspension bridges, and traditional Sherpa villages, gradually bringing the expedition back to lower altitudes. Upon reaching Phakding, the journey nears its conclusion, but the beauty of the Himalayas remains. A spectacular sunset over the mountains creates a picture-perfect moment, offering one last chance to soak in the magic of the Khumbu region. After the long descent, a comfortable stay in a teahouse awaits, where a refreshing hot shower provides much-needed relief after weeks in the high mountains. As the night sets in, a farewell celebration with the incredible support staff brings climbers and crew together, marking the end of an unforgettable adventure. The evening is filled with gratitude, shared stories, and memories of the Lhotse Expedition, a journey that will stay with each climber forever.

Day 44 - Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1400m/4590ft). Overnight at hotel

The final day of the Lhotse Expedition marks the farewell to the Himalayas, as the journey concludes with a scenic flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. The early morning departure from Lukla airstrip is both exhilarating and nostalgic, offering one last chance to admire the snow-covered peaks from the window before heading back to civilization. The aerial views of the Everest region and the rolling landscapes of the Himalayan foothills create a breathtaking farewell to the mountains that have been home for weeks. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, the ground team welcomes climbers and arranges a smooth transfer to the hotel, where the comforts of hot showers, fresh clothes, and a well-deserved rest await. This is a time to reflect on the incredible journey, the challenges overcome, and the unforgettable memories made while conquering one of the world's highest peaks. With the trek leader ensuring all flight details and logistics are in place, climbers can now relax, enjoy the warmth of the city, and begin sharing their Lhotse Expedition experiences with family and friends.

Day 45 - Kathmandu - Rest and Exploration day

After weeks in the Himalayas, a well-deserved rest and exploration day in Kathmandu provides the perfect opportunity to unwind and reflect on the Lhotse Expedition. The bustling capital city offers a blend of rich history, cultural heritage, and modern comforts, allowing climbers to relax while immersing themselves in Nepal’s vibrant atmosphere. For those looking to explore, iconic landmarks such as Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath Stupa, and Kathmandu Durbar Square showcase the city’s deep-rooted traditions and stunning architecture. Thamel, the heart of Kathmandu’s trekking hub, is ideal for souvenir shopping, enjoying local cuisine, or simply strolling through its lively streets. Many climbers take this time to visit the local markets, buy traditional Tibetan artifacts, or relax in one of the many cafés and rooftop restaurants. For those seeking rejuvenation, a spa or massage session helps relieve the strain from the long expedition. This day also allows time to repack, organize gear, and prepare for departure, while enjoying the final moments in Nepal’s capital. Whether spent exploring the city's UNESCO sites, indulging in local delicacies, or simply resting, this day serves as the perfect transition before concluding the unforgettable journey of the Lhotse Expedition.

Day 46 - Depart from Kathmandu

This free day in Kathmandu offers the perfect opportunity to explore the city at your own pace or join an optional guided tour to some of the most iconic cultural and historical sites. A visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the ancient city of Bhaktapur, and other UNESCO World Heritage Sites provides a glimpse into Nepal’s rich history and architectural beauty. For those who prefer a more relaxed day, the lively streets of Thamel offer excellent shopping opportunities, cozy cafés, and vibrant markets filled with traditional handicrafts, prayer flags, and Tibetan artifacts. This day also serves as a buffer for any potential delays in the Lukla-Kathmandu flight, which can occasionally be affected by unpredictable mountain weather. Planning the return journey on Day 47 allows flexibility in case of any last-minute schedule changes. As the Lhotse Expedition comes to an end, this is the perfect time to reflect on the incredible journey, celebrate the achievement, and start dreaming of the next big adventure in the Himalayas. Whether spent exploring, shopping, or simply relaxing, this final day in Nepal’s capital provides a memorable conclusion to an unforgettable expedition.

Cost Terms

COST INCLUDES

Roundtrip flights Kathmandu-Lukla and Lukla-Kathmandu
International and Domestic airport transfers pick up and drop
4 Nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
Accommodation while trekking in the best mountain lodges
Tented accommodation in the base camp and all higher camps (C1, C2, C3 & C4)
Full board meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) with tea/coffee during the trek
Freshly cooked meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner): Continental, Nepali, Indian and Chinese with hot drinks, tea, coffee in well managed hygienic base camp set up
EPI Gas and burner, cooking pots and high altitude food above base camp for members and climbing crew
Energy food supplies, fresh fruits, juice, drinks and nutritional snack bars
Mount Lhotse Climbing Permit and necessary paperwork
All trekking permits (National Park Permit, Entrance fee and TIMS)
Khumbu Icefall climbing charge
Carry bonus of Sherpas and route fixing charge
Garbage Disposal Fee and required Garbage management
Experienced and professional Climbing Sherpa (1 Climber : 1 Sherpa)
Government Liaison officer with his flight, food, accommodation, equipment and wages
Porter service for members personal baggage upto base camp and return, max 60 kgs
Well-trained and friendly base camp staff, cook and support staff
Insurance, wages, flight, equipment and allowances for climbing Sherpa and support staff
3 Oxygen bottles (4Ltr) per climbing member and 2 per climbing Sherpa
Oxygen mask and Regulator for member and climbing Sherpa
Sufficient back-up Oxygen bottles available at base camp (chargeable as per use)
Kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, store tent, sleeping tents, tables and chairs, solar panels and heaters at base camp
Transportation of food supplies and equipment from Kathmandu to Lukla (air cargo/vehicle) and Lukla to base camp (porter/yak) and return
Technical skills climbing training at the base camp for ladder crossing, Ice wall climbing, ascending and descending techniques
Central climbing equipment such as rope, shovel, ice screw, snow bar, etc
Satellite phone available for members in case of emergency (pay calls)
Walkie talkies for communicating between base camp and higher camps
Protrek Adventure Duffle bags for all expedition members
Welcome dinner and Farewell dinner with Protrek Adventure team in Kathmandu
Certificate of Achievement issued by MoCTCA on successful completion of the expedition
Weather forecast report after basecamp and during the climbing period
Gamma Bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) in case of emergency
Medical assessment of all the climbers at the base camp
A comprehensive First Aid Medical Kit

COST EXCLUDES

International airfare and Nepal visa fee
Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance
Personal trekking and climbing equipment
Drone and special filming permit
Internet, alcoholic beverages, mineral water, hot shower in tea house
Additional hotel stays in case of early arrival and late departure
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa US $1200
Tips for cook and supporting staff

Gear List

Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.

8000M EQUIPMENT LIST

HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR	UPPER BODY
Sun Cap	Thermal Wear (2-3)
Balaclava	Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)
Fleece Cap	Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)
Head Buff	Fleece Jacket (1)
Neck Gaiter	Gore-Tex Jacket (1)
Sun Glasses (UV Protection)	Down Jacket (1)
Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)	Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)
Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)	Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)
LOWER BODY	PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
Thermal Wear (2-3)	Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)
Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)	Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)
Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)	Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)
Gore-Tex Pants (1)	Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam
Down Pants (1)	Thermarest Mattress Inflatable
Wind Proof Pants (1)	Trekking Pole
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT	HANDS AND FEET
Helmet	Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)
Crampons	Wind Stopper Gloves
Ice Axe	Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
Harness	Summit Gloves
ATC Device (Descender)	Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)
Jumar (Ascender)	Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)	Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)
Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)	Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
Tape Sling (2 pcs)	Camp Booties (Down Booties)
Prusik Loops (1 pcs)	Base Camp Flipflop
BACKPACKS	TRAVEL DOCUMENT
Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)	Valid Passport
Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)	PP Size Photo (4 Copies)
Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)	Insurance Paper
Water Proof Stuff Sack	Contact Address
MEDICAL	EATING & DRINKING
Brufen / Combiflam	Energy Bar / Snacks
Paracetamol	Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)
Antibiotics	Thermos
Handy Plast	Mug
Crepe Bandage	Spoon / Fork
Iodine Tincture	Bowl / Lunch box
MISCELLANEOUS	TOILETRIES
Lip Balm	Hand Disinfectant
Sunscreen	Wet Tissue
Moisturizer	Tooth Paste
Quick Dry Towel	Tooth Brush
Power Bank	Soap
Pocket Knife	Shampoo
Poncho / Umbrella	Garbage Bag

Training

Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.

Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!

Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.

Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:

Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.

Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.

Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline

Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.

Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!

Fixed Depature

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Start Date	End Date	Price	Availability	Book
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review

Adriana Chavez

United States

The experience of climbing Ama Dablam in Nepal with Protrek Adventure was fantastic! All of our Sherpa guides were wonderful, and they went above and beyond to help us reach our goals. (All of the members reached the summit!). It was our expedition leader’s 12th summit on Ama Dablam, and I had absolute confidence in his abilities.

Protrek Adventure’s hospitality is what sets them apart from other tour operators. The people working on the ground in Kathmandu were outstanding in their professionalism and friendliness. Everything was done to ensure that our stay was enjoyable and that the amenities met high standards. Whenever we had a question, they were there to answer it promptly and patiently.

The booking process went smoothly. Prior to the trip, each of us had a one-on-one phone conversation in which we learned about the training, gear, and other aspects of the trip. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to ask personal questions regarding the trip.

During the course of the hike, we were provided with the most helpful and professional support staff that anyone could ask for. The porters and guides took excellent care of us and were extremely knowledgeable about the terrain. The best food one could expect at such high altitudes made a big difference on this trip.

Overall, I had a fantastic time on the trip, and I would absolutely recommend going with Protrek Adventure!!

Marco Regolizzo

Italy

After speaking with numerous tour operators in Nepal, I decided on Protrek Adventure for my Ama Dablam expedition. This trip with Protrek has been an absolute joy, and I can’t say enough good things about them. Everything was so well planned and organized from beginning to end.

Multiple emails were exchanged with Dawa in the office, and every one of my inquiries was thoroughly answered. Following the email conversations, there were more interactions on a call in which their team assisted me in sorting out and organizing all of my climbing gear.

Because Ama Dablam is a notoriously difficult and technical peak, it was critical that I double-check all of my gear before landing in Kathmandu. Pre-expedition training and preparation were made much easier for me by the Protrek team. Dawa and Viji, thank you so much for your help.

We did a lot of training at base camp, which helped us a lot for the climbing that was to come. It would not have been possible without Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, and Suren Rai, our porter. Special thanks to Sandeep for guiding us through all of the logistics and providing us with the best experience ever.

I would strongly recommend Protrek Adventure to anyone interested in peak climbing in Nepal. Their level of service, professionalism, and attention to detail made this trip the best it could have been.

Tracey Jones

United States

This was the best adventure I’ve ever been on in Nepal. With Protrek Adventure, I did the Ama Dablam Climb in the Himalayan Mountains. When it came to planning my trip, they were the best teammates I could have asked for. The successful ascent was made possible thanks to my guide Phurba Sherpa, who also assisted with my training by leading me through each campsite.

It would have been impossible without Sandeep’s knowledge and expertise, which allowed me to go into the mountains with complete confidence. I also want to thank Dawa, Manoj, and Viji for their help before I landed in Kathmandu. You guys are amazing! See you on the next one!

Nick Travers

United States

Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.

Alberto Benetti

Italy

I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.

Lary Alexander

Russia

I climbed Lobuche Peak in Nepal with Protrek Adventure during the autumn season. Excellent logistics, helpful staff, knowledgeable guides and a stunning mountain combine to make this one of my favourite expeditions. Highly recommend Protrek Adventure for adventures in Nepal. It was an experience I will never forget. Thank you Dawa and Nuru for the guicance and support. You guys made this adventure enjoyable from start to finish.

Nikita Otukuv

Russia

Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌

(Original)
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌

Paul Bonhomme

France

I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.

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