- 42 Days
Lhotse Expedition, its stands at 8516m, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m, and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m. Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Mount Everest. Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition first climbed Main Lhotse in 1956. Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter first climbed Lhotse Shar on December 5, 1979, by taking the SE-ridge. A deep scar, an icy gully known as the Lhotse Couloir, marks the West Face of Lhotse; the couloir is the crucial test to the Lhotse climb, mainly because of the climbing conditions of the couloir are affected by weather and seasonal snowfall. The route progresses through the Khumbu Icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp 1 that exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, we will pass through a lateral moraine to the west ridge that greets us with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp2. Leaving Camp2, we will reach near to the Lhotse wall by crossing the glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp3. Camp4 is located near to South Col. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.
Lhotse, the world’s fourth highest peak (8,516m), is located 3 kilometres south of Mt. Everest. It is actually a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col. Lhotse literally translates to “South Peak ” in Tibetan.
On May 18, 1956, the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger became the first to climb the peak, which is located on the border between Tibet and Nepal’s Khumbu region. Lhotse is well-known for its spectacular south face.
The peak is rarely attempted due to the extremely difficult climb. The Expedition to Mount Lhotse: The expedition typically takes 46 days to complete, with 30 days set aside for climbing. The expedition begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we will trek alongside the Khumbu glacier all the way to the Everest Base Camp (Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest shares the same base camp) while taking in the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture, and hospitality.
The Lhotse expedition not only shares the base camp with the Everest expedition, but also the length of the route to Everest’s Camp 4 up to the south col. Due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs, and a high objective danger of falling ice, the climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb.
Although the route is technically demanding once past the Khumbu Icefall, it poses less objective danger. On top of the Khumbu Icefall, the first camp is located. Camp II (at 6,752m) is situated in a lateral moraine near the west ridge’s bottom. The view of Lhotse from this vantage point is breathtaking. Before one can enjoy this view, however, one must battle flat glaciers and crevasses.
On a small ledge on the Lhotse wall, Camp III (7,100m) is located. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 begins with a traverse of the glacier, followed by 600 metres on a compact snow field. The final camp is Camp IV (at 7,850m), which is located near the south col. With the help of fixed ropes, Camp 4 is reached from Camp 3 via two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur.
The final push to the summit from camp 4 is up a steep narrow gully with packed snow, ice, and some rock. From the top, the view of the surrounding area is extremely rewarding. Protrek Adventure is committed to providing all of the services necessary for a successful climb.
To name a few, full board (meal and lodging), necessary transportation, experienced sherpas, guides, and crew members with wilderness medical training, permanent base camp, experienced expedition cooks and support staff, solar electricity, internet facility, satellite phone, and professional, reliable weather forecast service are just a few.
During the trek, lodging will be provided in lodges, and during the climb, tents will be provided. Our itinerary also ensures that you get the necessary acclimatisation. The Spring season is ideal for planning this trip. Get in touch with our friendly staff and plan your adventure in the Khumbu region.
Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.
|HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR||UPPER BODY|
|Sun Cap||Thermal Wear (2-3)|
|Balaclava||Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)|
|Fleece Cap||Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)|
|Head Buff||Fleece Jacket (1)|
|Neck Gaiter||Gore-Tex Jacket (1)|
|Sun Glasses (UV Protection)||Down Jacket (1)|
|Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)||Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)|
|Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)||Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)|
|LOWER BODY||PERSONAL EQUIPMENT|
|Thermal Wear (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)|
|Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)|
|Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)||Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)|
|Gore-Tex Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam|
|Down Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Inflatable|
|Wind Proof Pants (1)||Trekking Pole|
|TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT||HANDS AND FEET|
|Helmet||Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)|
|Crampons||Wind Stopper Gloves|
|Ice Axe||Heavy Gloves (Mitten)|
|ATC Device (Descender)||Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)|
|Jumar (Ascender)||Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)|
|Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)||Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)|
|Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)||Summit Socks (2 Pairs)|
|Tape Sling (2 pcs)||Camp Booties (Down Booties)|
|Prusik Loops (1 pcs)||Base Camp Flipflop|
|Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)||Valid Passport|
|Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)||PP Size Photo (4 Copies)|
|Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)||Insurance Paper|
|Water Proof Stuff Sack||Contact Address|
|MEDICAL||EATING & DRINKING|
|Brufen / Combiflam||Energy Bar / Snacks|
|Paracetamol||Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)|
|Crepe Bandage||Spoon / Fork|
|Iodine Tincture||Bowl / Lunch box|
|Lip Balm||Hand Disinfectant|
|Quick Dry Towel||Tooth Brush|
|Poncho / Umbrella||Garbage Bag|
Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.
Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!
Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.
Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:
Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.
Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.
Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline
Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.
Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!
|Start Date||End Date||Price||Availability||Book|
|04 Apr, 2022||19 May, 2022||$ USD||Close||Book now|
The experience of climbing Ama Dablam in Nepal with Protrek Adventure was fantastic! All of our Sherpa guides were wonderful, and they went above and beyond to help us reach our goals. (All of the members reached the summit!). It was our expedition leader’s 12th summit on Ama Dablam, and I had absolute confidence in his abilities.
Protrek Adventure’s hospitality is what sets them apart from other tour operators. The people working on the ground in Kathmandu were outstanding in their professionalism and friendliness. Everything was done to ensure that our stay was enjoyable and that the amenities met high standards. Whenever we had a question, they were there to answer it promptly and patiently.
The booking process went smoothly. Prior to the trip, each of us had a one-on-one phone conversation in which we learned about the training, gear, and other aspects of the trip. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to ask personal questions regarding the trip.
During the course of the hike, we were provided with the most helpful and professional support staff that anyone could ask for. The porters and guides took excellent care of us and were extremely knowledgeable about the terrain. The best food one could expect at such high altitudes made a big difference on this trip.
Overall, I had a fantastic time on the trip, and I would absolutely recommend going with Protrek Adventure!!
After speaking with numerous tour operators in Nepal, I decided on Protrek Adventure for my Ama Dablam expedition. This trip with Protrek has been an absolute joy, and I can’t say enough good things about them. Everything was so well planned and organized from beginning to end.
Multiple emails were exchanged with Dawa in the office, and every one of my inquiries was thoroughly answered. Following the email conversations, there were more interactions on a call in which their team assisted me in sorting out and organizing all of my climbing gear.
Because Ama Dablam is a notoriously difficult and technical peak, it was critical that I double-check all of my gear before landing in Kathmandu. Pre-expedition training and preparation were made much easier for me by the Protrek team. Dawa and Viji, thank you so much for your help.
We did a lot of training at base camp, which helped us a lot for the climbing that was to come. It would not have been possible without Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, and Suren Rai, our porter. Special thanks to Sandeep for guiding us through all of the logistics and providing us with the best experience ever.
I would strongly recommend Protrek Adventure to anyone interested in peak climbing in Nepal. Their level of service, professionalism, and attention to detail made this trip the best it could have been.
This was the best adventure I’ve ever been on in Nepal. With Protrek Adventure, I did the Ama Dablam Climb in the Himalayan Mountains. When it came to planning my trip, they were the best teammates I could have asked for. The successful ascent was made possible thanks to my guide Phurba Sherpa, who also assisted with my training by leading me through each campsite.
It would have been impossible without Sandeep’s knowledge and expertise, which allowed me to go into the mountains with complete confidence. I also want to thank Dawa, Manoj, and Viji for their help before I landed in Kathmandu. You guys are amazing! See you on the next one!
Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.
I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.
I climbed Lobuche Peak in Nepal with Protrek Adventure during the autumn season. Excellent logistics, helpful staff, knowledgeable guides and a stunning mountain combine to make this one of my favourite expeditions. Highly recommend Protrek Adventure for adventures in Nepal. It was an experience I will never forget. Thank you Dawa and Nuru for the guicance and support. You guys made this adventure enjoyable from start to finish.
Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌
I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.
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