Gasherbrum 1 Expedition
- 45 Days
Everest Lhotse Expedition is for those who want to climb both of the 8000ers at the same time, and includes high-altitude ascents of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse. These two 8000m share the same Khumbu icefall route until S-Col (7890m), allowing climbers to make a second ascent after completing the first. Peak XV was renamed Mount Everest in honour of Sir George Everest, who served as the lead surveyor in 1856. Before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s successful attempt on Everest via the South route on May 29, 1953, there had been several attempts. Every year, it is estimated that around 1000 ascent attempts are made. To reach the summit, we’ll take the southern route. This trip is for those who have climbed a few 7000m peaks or more in the past. The real trek appears to begin at the Base Camp, and it takes about 7 days to walk there on foot. We’ll then proceed to Camp I (6,065 metres), where we’ll see the Khumbu glacier. Camp II (6,750m) is around 450m on a gradual slope from Khumbu Glacier, and Camp III is around 610m (7,100m). At the summit of Lhotse, Camp III is located. You will require oxygen cylinders from this point forward. After crossing the 8000m elevation, you will arrive at Camp IV (7,910m). The Death Zone is another name for this location. Lhotse is the world’s fourth highest mountain, standing at 8516 metres.
This expedition is for those who want to climb both of the 8000ers at the same time, and includes high-altitude ascents of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse. These two 8000m share the same Khumbu icefall route until S-Col (7890m), allowing climbers to make a second ascent after completing the first.
Peak XV was renamed Mount Everest in honour of Sir George Everest, who served as the lead surveyor in 1856. Before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s successful attempt on Everest via the South route on May 29, 1953, there had been several attempts.
Every year, it is estimated that around 1000 ascent attempts are made. To reach the summit, we’ll take the southern route. This trip is for those who have climbed a few 7000m peaks or more in the past. The real trek appears to begin at the Base Camp, and it takes about 7 days to walk there on foot.
We’ll then proceed to Camp I (6,065 metres), where we’ll see the Khumbu glacier. Camp II (6,750m) is around 450m on a gradual slope from Khumbu Glacier, and Camp III is around 610m (7,100m). At the summit of Lhotse, Camp III is located.
You will require oxygen cylinders from this point forward. After crossing the 8000m elevation, you will arrive at Camp IV (7,910m). The Death Zone is another name for this location. Lhotse is the world’s fourth highest mountain, standing at 8516 metres.
It is located on the Tibetan-Nepal border. The South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000 metres, connects the summits of the two mountains, and its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest.
The three summits of Lhotse are Lhotse Main (8516m), Lhotse Shar (8383m), and Lhotse Middle or East (8413m). Lhotse is sometimes mistakenly identified as the Everest massif’s south peak. Climbing Lhotse was not given serious consideration until Everest had been conquered.
Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 as a diversionary route to Everest’s summit. In 1956, a Swiss expedition led by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger climbed Main Lhotse for the first time. On December 5, 1979, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter climbed Lhotse Shar via the SE-ridge for the first time.
The West Face of Lhotse is marked by a deep scar, an icy gully known as the Lhotse Couloir; the couloir is a crucial test for the Lhotse climb, primarily because the climbing conditions of the couloir are affected by weather and seasonal snowfall. The trail passes through the Khumbu Icefall.
Moving on, we’ll arrive at Camp 1, which is located at the top of the Khumbu icefall, which is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, we’ll traverse lateral moraine to the west ridge, where we’ll be greeted by a close-up view of Lhotse.
This location is ideal for Camp2. Leaving Camp2, we will cross glaciers and ice cliffs to get close to the Lhotse wall, where we will set up Camp3. Camp 4 is close to South Col. We will ascend to the summit from Camp 4 via steep rock sections.
Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.
|HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR||UPPER BODY|
|Sun Cap||Thermal Wear (2-3)|
|Balaclava||Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)|
|Fleece Cap||Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)|
|Head Buff||Fleece Jacket (1)|
|Neck Gaiter||Gore-Tex Jacket (1)|
|Sun Glasses (UV Protection)||Down Jacket (1)|
|Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)||Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)|
|Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)||Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)|
|LOWER BODY||PERSONAL EQUIPMENT|
|Thermal Wear (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)|
|Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)||Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)|
|Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)||Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)|
|Gore-Tex Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam|
|Down Pants (1)||Thermarest Mattress Inflatable|
|Wind Proof Pants (1)||Trekking Pole|
|TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT||HANDS AND FEET|
|Helmet||Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)|
|Crampons||Wind Stopper Gloves|
|Ice Axe||Heavy Gloves (Mitten)|
|ATC Device (Descender)||Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)|
|Jumar (Ascender)||Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)|
|Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)||Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)|
|Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)||Summit Socks (2 Pairs)|
|Tape Sling (2 pcs)||Camp Booties (Down Booties)|
|Prusik Loops (1 pcs)||Base Camp Flipflop|
|Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)||Valid Passport|
|Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)||PP Size Photo (4 Copies)|
|Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)||Insurance Paper|
|Water Proof Stuff Sack||Contact Address|
|MEDICAL||EATING & DRINKING|
|Brufen / Combiflam||Energy Bar / Snacks|
|Paracetamol||Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)|
|Crepe Bandage||Spoon / Fork|
|Iodine Tincture||Bowl / Lunch box|
|Lip Balm||Hand Disinfectant|
|Quick Dry Towel||Tooth Brush|
|Poncho / Umbrella||Garbage Bag|
Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.
Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!
Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.
Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:
Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.
Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.
Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline
Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.
Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!
|Start Date||End Date||Price||Availability||Book|
|04 Apr, 2024||31 May, 2024||$ USD||Available||Book now|
The experience of climbing Ama Dablam in Nepal with Protrek Adventure was fantastic! All of our Sherpa guides were wonderful, and they went above and beyond to help us reach our goals. (All of the members reached the summit!). It was our expedition leader’s 12th summit on Ama Dablam, and I had absolute confidence in his abilities.
Protrek Adventure’s hospitality is what sets them apart from other tour operators. The people working on the ground in Kathmandu were outstanding in their professionalism and friendliness. Everything was done to ensure that our stay was enjoyable and that the amenities met high standards. Whenever we had a question, they were there to answer it promptly and patiently.
The booking process went smoothly. Prior to the trip, each of us had a one-on-one phone conversation in which we learned about the training, gear, and other aspects of the trip. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to ask personal questions regarding the trip.
During the course of the hike, we were provided with the most helpful and professional support staff that anyone could ask for. The porters and guides took excellent care of us and were extremely knowledgeable about the terrain. The best food one could expect at such high altitudes made a big difference on this trip.
Overall, I had a fantastic time on the trip, and I would absolutely recommend going with Protrek Adventure!!
After speaking with numerous tour operators in Nepal, I decided on Protrek Adventure for my Ama Dablam expedition. This trip with Protrek has been an absolute joy, and I can’t say enough good things about them. Everything was so well planned and organized from beginning to end.
Multiple emails were exchanged with Dawa in the office, and every one of my inquiries was thoroughly answered. Following the email conversations, there were more interactions on a call in which their team assisted me in sorting out and organizing all of my climbing gear.
Because Ama Dablam is a notoriously difficult and technical peak, it was critical that I double-check all of my gear before landing in Kathmandu. Pre-expedition training and preparation were made much easier for me by the Protrek team. Dawa and Viji, thank you so much for your help.
We did a lot of training at base camp, which helped us a lot for the climbing that was to come. It would not have been possible without Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, and Suren Rai, our porter. Special thanks to Sandeep for guiding us through all of the logistics and providing us with the best experience ever.
I would strongly recommend Protrek Adventure to anyone interested in peak climbing in Nepal. Their level of service, professionalism, and attention to detail made this trip the best it could have been.
This was the best adventure I’ve ever been on in Nepal. With Protrek Adventure, I did the Ama Dablam Climb in the Himalayan Mountains. When it came to planning my trip, they were the best teammates I could have asked for. The successful ascent was made possible thanks to my guide Phurba Sherpa, who also assisted with my training by leading me through each campsite.
It would have been impossible without Sandeep’s knowledge and expertise, which allowed me to go into the mountains with complete confidence. I also want to thank Dawa, Manoj, and Viji for their help before I landed in Kathmandu. You guys are amazing! See you on the next one!
I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.
Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.
Had a fantastic expedition to Lobuche Peak with the Protrek team. Don’t look any further and book them for your next Himalayan adventure. Highly professional and excellent logistics. Highly recommend them for your high altitude adventures.
Best expedition organizing company in Nepal. Logistics and team coordination was extraordinary! Utmost care was given to the safety of trekkers. Experience and local knowledge of the Expedition Leader is highly commendable. Our team had a truly wonderful experience in Lobuche Peak with Protrek. Thanks to the warm and welcoming staffs who made our stay in Nepal unforgettable. We would love to plan our next trip soon with you guys..!!
I booked the Island peak expedition with Protrek adventure, and they customized the itinerary for my buddy and me. They included the Everest base camp too in the plan – which was cool, and the service was extraordinary. Tea houses booked for our stay were top class accommodations, and the food was excellent. Our local guide Phurba Sherpa was very helpful and handled the trip well. I was quite impressed with the camping facilities and the equpiments provided to us. Commendable efforts at such high altitudes. Turned out to be one of the best trips I’ve ever had to Nepal.
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