Dhaulagiri Expedition 2025 - Protrek Adventure

Trip Overview : Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri Expedition is Nepal’s most challenging peak climbing. It took until 1960 for the first successful summit. The sheer size of Dhaulagiri is unmatched by any other peak. It reaches a height of over 7000 metres and stretches for 30 kilometres across the Kali Gandaki Valley, which is an impressive feat by any measure.

To date, the majority of ascents have been made via the mountain’s first ascent route, or the Normal Route. There have also been other ascents that have had to be built from nearly every slope. In the south and west, the massive Dhaulagiri has five ridges and two faces. From their respective base camps, each climbs 4000 metres.

There are five summit peaks on Dhaulagiri: Dhaulagiri I, Dhaulagiri II, Dhaulagiri III, Dhaulagiri IV, Dhaulagiri V. Surrounding the massive 8000m peak is: Churen Himal Main, Gurja Himal, Putha Hiunchuli, Junction Peak. Protrek Adventure runs the Dhaulagiri expedition with full board services in the spring and autumn seasons.

We provide services to both groups and individuals. Mountaineering with Protrek Adventure is always safe and secure in a trusting and friendly environment. We provide professional, supportive, and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to Dhaulagiri’s advanced base camp via Darbang by bus, a trek through Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, and Japanese camp, and a trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp via Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, and Japanese camp.

Protrek Adventure organises all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics, airfare, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers in a comprehensive service.

On our way to the ABC, we plan logistics to ensure that we have all of the necessary lodging and food. Our chefs and kitchen assistants will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals per day during the base camp and climbing period, as well as ensure that hot and cold drinks are available.

We provide all of our clients with full board services with spacious expedition quality personal tents in the base camp. In the base camp, we also have a dining tent, a kitchen tent, toilet facilities, shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff. Dhaulagiri is usually approached via the Northeast Ridge route.

Above base camp, four camps are usually set up. Camp I(5900m), Camp II(6400m), Camp III(7200m), and Camp IV(5300m) are the advanced base camps (5300m) (7500m).

itinerary

Day 01 - Arrival at Kathmandu (1400m/4,595ft). Overnight at hotel

Upon arrival in Kathmandu at an altitude of 1,400 meters (4,595 feet), you'll be welcomed by the vibrant energy of Nepal’s capital. As the gateway to the Himalayas, Kathmandu offers a mix of rich culture, ancient heritage, and modern conveniences. After landing at Tribhuvan International Airport, our team will greet you and assist with a smooth transfer to your hotel. Take the evening to relax, recover from your journey, and explore the lively streets of Thamel or the serene courtyards of Durbar Square. A good night’s rest is essential as you prepare for the challenging Dhaulagiri Expedition ahead. Overnight stay at the hotel.

Day 02 - Kathmandu – Official procedures and Expedition Arrangements

In Kathmandu, the day is dedicated to completing official procedures and finalizing expedition arrangements for the Dhaulagiri ascent. This includes obtaining climbing permits, attending a detailed expedition briefing, and making last-minute gear checks. Our experienced team will handle all logistics, ensuring everything is in place for a smooth and successful journey. You’ll also have time to explore the city, visit iconic heritage sites, or make any necessary purchases for the climb. Proper preparation is key, and this day allows you to get fully ready before heading into the remote Himalayan wilderness. Overnight stay in Kathmandu.

Day 03 - Fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara (930m/2,725ft). Overnight at hotel

The journey to Dhaulagiri begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a city nestled at 930 meters (2,725 feet) with breathtaking views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. This short yet spectacular flight offers a stunning aerial perspective of Nepal’s diverse landscapes, from rolling hills to snow-capped peaks. Upon arrival in Pokhara, you’ll be transferred to your hotel, where you can unwind and soak in the serene atmosphere of Phewa Lake or explore the city's vibrant streets. This brief stop allows you to rest before the adventure intensifies in the days ahead. Overnight stay at the hotel in Pokhara.

Day 04 - Drive from Pokhara to Takam (1500m/4920ft)

The drive from Pokhara to Takam (1,500m/4,920ft) takes you deep into the remote landscapes of the Dhaulagiri region. Leaving the bustling city behind, the journey winds through lush valleys, terraced hillsides, and charming villages, offering a glimpse into Nepal’s rich rural culture. As the road ascends, the towering peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri come into view, a breathtaking reminder of the adventure ahead. The drive, though long and rugged at times, helps with gradual acclimatization before the trek begins. Upon reaching Takam, a quiet village nestled in the foothills, you’ll rest for the night, surrounded by the peaceful beauty of the Himalayas.

Day 05 - Trek from Takam to Bagar (2085m/6,840ft)

The trek from Takam to Bagar (2,085m/6,840ft) marks the beginning of the true Himalayan adventure. Leaving the village behind, the trail winds through dense forests, terraced fields, and remote settlements, offering a glimpse into the traditional lifestyle of the Magar and Gurung communities. The terrain gradually ascends, with breathtaking views of Dhaulagiri and its neighboring peaks emerging along the way. The route is a mix of gentle climbs and challenging sections, making it an excellent introduction to the expedition. As you reach Bagar, a secluded and picturesque village, the sense of remoteness deepens. Here, you’ll spend the night, surrounded by towering hills and the raw beauty of the Himalayas, preparing for the more demanding days ahead.

Day 06 - Trek from Bagar to Dovan (2620m/8,595ft)

The trek from Bagar to Dovan (2,620m/8,595ft) takes you deeper into the rugged wilderness of the Dhaulagiri region. Leaving behind the last permanent settlement, the trail enters dense forests of rhododendron and oak, following a narrow path along steep ridges and rocky terrain. As you ascend, the air grows crisper, and the sounds of civilization fade, replaced by the soothing rush of mountain streams and the occasional call of Himalayan wildlife. The route demands careful footing, with sections that require navigating through landslide-prone areas. After several hours of trekking, you arrive at Dovan, a remote campsite nestled in a dense forest clearing. This isolated stop offers a true sense of adventure, marking the transition into the more challenging, high-altitude sections of the expedition.

Day 07 - Trek from Dovan to Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft)

The trek from Dovan to Italian Base Camp (3,660m/12,005ft) is a significant ascent, bringing you closer to the heart of the Dhaulagiri massif. The trail winds through dense forests, gradually thinning as you gain altitude. Crossing glacial streams and navigating steep, rocky sections, you’ll notice the landscape shifting from lush greenery to alpine terrain. As you climb higher, the first up-close views of Dhaulagiri and its towering ice walls emerge, offering a glimpse of the challenge ahead. Reaching Italian Base Camp feels like stepping into another world, surrounded by dramatic glaciers and rugged peaks. This camp serves as a crucial acclimatization point, allowing your body to adjust to the increasing altitude. Spending the night here under the shadow of Dhaulagiri prepares you for the more demanding stages of the expedition.

Day 08 - Italian Base Camp – Acclimatization and Rest Day

A full day at Italian Base Camp (3,660m/12,005ft) is dedicated to acclimatization and rest, allowing your body to adjust to the increasing altitude before advancing further into the Dhaulagiri wilderness. This crucial pause helps minimize the risks of altitude sickness and ensures better performance in the challenging days ahead. While rest is a priority, short acclimatization hikes to nearby ridges offer stunning panoramic views of Dhaulagiri, Manapathi, and surrounding ice-covered peaks. The stark, glacial landscape serves as a reminder of the extreme conditions that await higher up. The day also provides an opportunity to check gear, hydrate well, and mentally prepare for the demanding ascent. As night falls, the crisp mountain air and breathtaking surroundings create an unforgettable experience in the heart of the Himalayas.

Day 09 - Trek from Italian Base Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m/15,585ft).

The trek from Italian Base Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,750m/15,585ft) is a demanding yet rewarding journey through one of the most remote and rugged sections of the expedition. The trail ascends steeply, navigating glacial moraines, icy ridges, and rocky terrain. As you climb higher, vegetation disappears, leaving behind a stark, alpine landscape dominated by towering icefalls and the imposing face of Dhaulagiri. The route requires careful footing, with sections prone to avalanches and shifting glaciers, making this one of the most challenging days of the trek. Upon reaching Dhaulagiri Base Camp, you are greeted with a surreal view of the world’s seventh-highest peak rising dramatically above you. The base camp, nestled amid massive ice formations and surrounded by 8,000-meter giants, becomes home for the next phase of the expedition. Here, climbers focus on further acclimatization and final preparations before attempting the ascent.

Day 10 - Day 37 - Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft) Climbing and Summit Period

The summit phase of Mount Dhaulagiri (8,167m/26,795ft) spans from Day 10 to Day 37, requiring careful planning, patience, and resilience. This period is dedicated to a strategic rotation system, essential for acclimatization and maximizing summit success. Climbers progressively ascend to higher camps before returning to lower altitudes to allow their bodies to adapt to extreme conditions. Typically, the route involves establishing multiple high camps—Camp 1 (5,900m), Camp 2 (6,400m), Camp 3 (7,200m), and the final push from Camp 4 (7,500m). The ascent demands technical ice climbing, navigating crevasses, and enduring unpredictable weather conditions. After multiple rotations, when the team is fully acclimatized and a favorable weather window appears, the summit push begins. The final ascent is physically and mentally grueling, but reaching the top of Dhaulagiri rewards climbers with an unforgettable 360-degree view of the world’s highest peaks. After summiting, a careful descent is crucial before safely returning to base camp, marking the completion of this challenging yet extraordinary Himalayan expedition.

Day 38 - Dhaulagiri Base Camp – Cleaning up and Layout the Expedition Gears

After the successful summit attempt, the team returns to Dhaulagiri Base Camp to begin the essential process of cleaning up and organizing expedition gear. This phase ensures that all waste, equipment, and temporary structures are properly managed, maintaining the pristine environment of the Himalayas. Climbers carefully pack personal and group gear, dismantle high-altitude camps, and secure all climbing equipment for transport. The team also conducts a final inspection to ensure that no trace is left behind, adhering to responsible mountaineering practices. This day allows for much-needed rest and recovery while reflecting on the challenges and triumphs of the expedition. As preparations for the return journey begin, the sense of accomplishment and respect for the mountain remain at the heart of every climber’s experience.

Day 39 - Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Yak Kharka (3680m/12,075ft)

Leaving Dhaulagiri Base Camp behind, the trek descends towards Yak Kharka (3,680m/12,075ft), marking the beginning of the return journey. The route follows a rugged trail through glacial moraines, navigating past icy sections and steep descents. As you lose altitude, the air becomes richer in oxygen, making the walk more comfortable compared to the strenuous ascent. The barren, high-altitude terrain gradually transitions into alpine meadows, where yaks graze against a backdrop of towering peaks. Yak Kharka, a remote yet scenic grazing area, serves as an ideal resting point after the intense expedition. Here, you’ll spend the night, recovering from the demanding climb while surrounded by the tranquil beauty of the Himalayas.

Day 40 - Trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha (2650m/8,695ft)

The trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha (2,650m/8,695ft) takes you further down into the Kali Gandaki Valley, where the barren, high-altitude landscape gradually gives way to lush greenery. The descent follows a winding trail through alpine meadows and rocky ridges, offering stunning views of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri along the way. As you lose altitude, the warmer climate and increasing vegetation make for a refreshing change. Marpha, a picturesque Thakali village, is famous for its whitewashed houses, narrow cobbled streets, and thriving apple orchards. Known as the “Apple Capital of Nepal,” Marpha offers a well-deserved break with its delicious apple cider and traditional Thakali cuisine. This charming Himalayan village provides a perfect place to rest and reflect on the incredible journey through the Dhaulagiri region.

Day 41 - Drive from Marpha to Pokhara (930m/2,725ft). Overnight at hotel

The journey from Marpha to Pokhara (930m/2,725ft) is a scenic drive through the stunning landscapes of the Kali Gandaki Valley. Leaving the serene mountain village behind, the route follows rugged roads alongside the world’s deepest gorge, with breathtaking views of towering peaks, cascading waterfalls, and terraced farmlands. As the altitude drops, the air becomes warmer, and the transition from alpine terrain to lush hills is evident. Upon reaching Pokhara, the lakeside city welcomes you with its relaxed atmosphere, offering a well-earned opportunity to unwind. Whether strolling along Phewa Lake, indulging in local cuisine, or simply resting at the hotel, Pokhara provides the perfect setting to reflect on the extraordinary Dhaulagiri expedition.

Day 42 - Fly from Pokhara to Kathmandu (1400m/4,595ft). Overnight at hotel

The expedition nears its conclusion with a short yet scenic flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu (1,400m/4,595ft). As the plane soars above the Himalayas, you get a final aerial view of the towering peaks, deep valleys, and winding rivers that have been part of this incredible journey. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you’ll be transferred to your hotel, where you can relax after weeks of intense trekking and climbing. The bustling capital offers a perfect blend of culture and comfort, allowing time to explore heritage sites, enjoy local cuisine, or simply rest before departure. This marks the end of the unforgettable Dhaulagiri expedition, leaving you with lasting memories of one of the most challenging and rewarding climbs in the world.

Day 43 - Kathmandu - Rest and Exploration day

After weeks in the remote Himalayan wilderness, a well-deserved rest and exploration day in Kathmandu offers the perfect opportunity to unwind and reflect on the incredible Dhaulagiri expedition. This day allows climbers to relax, recover, and explore the vibrant streets of Nepal’s capital at their own pace. Wander through the UNESCO-listed heritage sites of Durbar Square, Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), or Pashupatinath, each offering a glimpse into the city’s deep-rooted history and spirituality. For those looking to indulge, Thamel’s cozy cafés, authentic Nepali cuisine, and traditional souvenir shops provide a perfect setting to celebrate the expedition’s success. Whether enjoying a quiet day of rest or immersing in Kathmandu’s cultural treasures, this final day in Nepal marks a fitting end to an unforgettable adventure.

Day 44 - Depart from Kathmandu

As the unforgettable Dhaulagiri expedition comes to an end, it’s time to depart from Kathmandu, carrying with you a lifetime of memories from the Himalayas. After an early breakfast, our team will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward journey. As you leave Nepal, the breathtaking peaks, remote trails, and incredible challenges of the expedition will remain etched in your mind. Whether reflecting on the triumph of reaching the summit or the camaraderie built along the way, this journey will always be a testament to endurance and adventure. Until next time, farewell from the land of the Himalayas, with the hope of future explorations in these majestic mountains.

Cost Terms

COST INCLUDES

Roundtrip flights Kathmandu-Pokhara and Pokhara-Kathmandu
International and Domestic airport transfers pick up and drop
Roundtrip ground transfers Pokhara-Takam and Marpha-Pokhara
4 Nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
1 Nights hotel accommodation in Pokhara with breakfast
Tented accommodation during the trek at each campsite
Tented accommodation in the base camp and all higher camps (C1, C2 & C3)
Full board meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) with tea/coffee during the trek
Freshly cooked meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner): Continental, Nepali, Indian and Chinese with hot drinks, tea, coffee in well managed hygienic base camp set up
EPI Gas and burner, cooking pots and high altitude food above base camp for members and climbing crew
Energy food supplies, fresh fruits, juice, drinks and nutritional snack bars
Mount Dhaulagiri Climbing Permit and necessary paperwork
All trekking permits (National Park Permit, Entrance fee and TIMS)
Carry bonus of Sherpas and route fixing charge
Garbage Disposal Fee and required Garbage management
Experienced and professional Climbing Sherpa (1 Climber : 1 Sherpa)
Government Liaison officer with his flight, food, accommodation, equipment and wages
Porter service for members personal baggage upto base camp and return, max 60 kgs
Well-trained and friendly base camp staff, cook and support staff
Insurance, wages, flight, equipment and allowances for climbing Sherpa and support staff
2 Oxygen bottles (4Ltr) per climbing member and 1 per climbing Sherpa
Oxygen mask and Regulator for member and climbing Sherpa
Sufficient back-up Oxygen bottles available at base camp (chargeable as per use)
Kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, store tent, sleeping tents, tables and chairs, solar panels and heaters at base camp
Transportation of food supplies and equipment from Kathmandu to Takam (air cargo/vehicle) and Takam to base camp (porter/yak) and return
Technical skills climbing training at the base camp for ladder crossing, Ice wall climbing, ascending and descending techniques
Central climbing equipment such as rope, shovel, ice screw, snow bar, etc
Satellite phone available for members in case of emergency (pay calls)
Walkie talkies for communicating between base camp and higher camps
Protrek Adventure Duffle bags for all expedition members
Welcome dinner and Farewell dinner with Protrek Adventure team in Kathmandu
Certificate of Achievement issued by MoCTCA on successful completion of the expedition
Weather forecast report after basecamp and during the climbing period
Gamma Bag / Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) in case of emergency
Medical assessment of all the climbers at the base camp
A comprehensive First Aid Medical Kit

COST EXCLUDES

International airfare and Nepal visa fee
Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance
Personal trekking and climbing equipment
Drone and special filming permit
Internet, alcoholic beverages, mineral water, hot shower in tea house
Additional hotel stays in case of early arrival and late departure
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa US $1200
Tips for cook and supporting staff

Gear List

Packing for Your Next Adventure: Everything You Need to Know
The key to having a good time in the mountains is to be organized and plan ahead. In addition to all of your training, ensuring that you have the appropriate equipment is an important aspect of preparing for your trip. Choosing the proper equipment will give you an extra comfort and safety boost, so you can be at your best while still enjoying yourself. It’s essential to have the right gear with you to get the most out of your trip. To help you better prepare for the mountain you will be climbing, we have provided a complete packing guide.

8000M EQUIPMENT LIST

HEADWEAR & EYEWEAR	UPPER BODY
Sun Cap	Thermal Wear (2-3)
Balaclava	Mid Weight Trek Top (2-3)
Fleece Cap	Heavy Weight Trek Top (2)
Head Buff	Fleece Jacket (1)
Neck Gaiter	Gore-Tex Jacket (1)
Sun Glasses (UV Protection)	Down Jacket (1)
Glacier Glasses (UV Protection)	Trekking T-Shirt (2-3)
Headlamp (4 pairs Rechargeable Batteries)	Full Sleeve T-Shirt (2)
LOWER BODY	PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
Thermal Wear (2-3)	Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C for Base Camp)
Mid Weight Trek Pants (2-3)	Down Sleeping Bag (-20°C to -40°C for Summit Camp)
Heavy Weight Trek Pants (2)	Down Suit (Northface/ Mountain Hardwear/ Kailas/ Millet)
Gore-Tex Pants (1)	Thermarest Mattress Cell Foam
Down Pants (1)	Thermarest Mattress Inflatable
Wind Proof Pants (1)	Trekking Pole
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT	HANDS AND FEET
Helmet	Fleece Gloves (Thin 2 Pairs)
Crampons	Wind Stopper Gloves
Ice Axe	Heavy Gloves (Mitten)
Harness	Summit Gloves
ATC Device (Descender)	Summit Boot (Lasportiva/ Millet/ Kailas)
Jumar (Ascender)	Trekking Shoes (1 Pair)
Lock Carabiner (2 pcs)	Trekking Socks (6 Pairs)
Plain Carabiner (2 pcs)	Summit Socks (2 Pairs)
Tape Sling (2 pcs)	Camp Booties (Down Booties)
Prusik Loops (1 pcs)	Base Camp Flipflop
BACKPACKS	TRAVEL DOCUMENT
Rucksack (45 – 55 Ltr)	Valid Passport
Day Pack (30 – 40 Ltr)	PP Size Photo (4 Copies)
Duffle Bag (2 pcs 90 – 120 Ltr)	Insurance Paper
Water Proof Stuff Sack	Contact Address
MEDICAL	EATING & DRINKING
Brufen / Combiflam	Energy Bar / Snacks
Paracetamol	Water Bottle (1 Ltr – 2 pcs)
Antibiotics	Thermos
Handy Plast	Mug
Crepe Bandage	Spoon / Fork
Iodine Tincture	Bowl / Lunch box
MISCELLANEOUS	TOILETRIES
Lip Balm	Hand Disinfectant
Sunscreen	Wet Tissue
Moisturizer	Tooth Paste
Quick Dry Towel	Tooth Brush
Power Bank	Soap
Pocket Knife	Shampoo
Poncho / Umbrella	Garbage Bag

Training

Our training goal is to get you physically and mentally prepared to face the climb with more confidence. The climbing goal will be to perform consistently throughout the adventure. Fitness for mountaineering requires a high overall level of physical conditioning. Both cardiovascular and motor fitness are needed to climb at varying levels of intensity and to navigate challenging terrain, often while carrying a loaded pack and at high altitudes.

Training goals are critically important and allow you to perform better at higher altitudes and enjoy the entire adventure. We suggest that you examine the physical requirements of the climb you are approaching and work on your fitness in different levels. Click here to Learn more about Trip Grades and choose what’s best for you!

Establish a timeline for your training program and focus on specific conditioning for better results. Along with your workouts try and add hikes and climbs in the outdoors whenever possible to get more comfortable with different terrains. Sound fitness gained through a well-guided program is the only best way to ensure a safe and successful adventure.

Mountaineering Fitness and Training
It may also be helpful to break down your training timeline into a number of key phases. These are:

Phase 1 : Base physical fitness
The first phase of getting prepared for your climb is to focus on your base fitness. You should incorporate a fitness routine that focuses on both cardiovascular fitness and motor fitness training. For those who are not used to intense workouts this phase will help you to kickstart your training. Remember that consistency is the first most important factor in achieving any goal. Combine your basic fitness regimes along with running and stair climbing. You are now ready for outdoor adventures.

Phase 2 : Training specific for the climb
Once you have established your base physical fitness, you will need to train specifically for the climb. Depending on the difficulty and intensity of the climb, add advanced workout sessions combined with uphill training. Try and do the same fitness routines with some added loads. Strength training combined with cardiovascular and motor fitness will help with the overall conditioning. This will take your workouts to the next level and help gear up for the mountaineering challenge ahead.

Phase 3 : Outdoor Training
Nothing can replace training in the real outdoors. In the final phase of your training, you should be attempting climbs which are similar to the ones you are approaching. It is great to test your endurance outdoors. This gives you a great edge in preparing for conditions similar to the ones you will encounter during your expedition. It isn’t always possible to find similar terrains close to where you live, but it is best to find a hike as close to the climb as possible. This is the best way to test your climbing gears as well.
Training goals and timeline

Working out for at least 5 days in a week is the best way to get your body physically prepared for the climb ahead. Regular and consistent training always gives the best result and keeps you highly motivated. Make sure that you workout regularly and also give enough time for rest and recovery. Keep it balanced and have a properly planned fitness routine and never overdo exercises to the point of injury. While 2 to 3 months is a good amount of time to train, starting your training earlier allows more time to adjust and prepare.

Click here to learn more about Training for your Upcoming Climb and get ready for the adventure!

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FAQ

What is the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The Dhaulagiri Expedition involves ascending Mount Dhaulagiri, the world's seventh-highest peak at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet), located in western Nepal. This climb is renowned for its technical difficulty and remote setting, attracting seasoned mountaineers seeking a formidable challenge.

Where is Mount Dhaulagiri situated?

Mount Dhaulagiri is positioned in the Dhaulagiri Himal range of north-central Nepal, approximately 50 miles northwest of Kathmandu. It stands prominently west of the Annapurna massif, with the Kaligandaki River Gorge demarcating the two regions.

How long does the Dhaulagiri Expedition typically last?

The Dhaulagiri Expedition generally spans 6 to 8 weeks, encompassing phases such as trekking to base camp, acclimatization, establishing higher camps, and the summit attempt. The exact duration can vary based on weather conditions and individual team strategies.

When is the best time to undertake the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The optimal periods for the Dhaulagiri Expedition are during the pre-monsoon (April to May) and post-monsoon (September to October) seasons. These windows offer more stable weather conditions, enhancing the likelihood of a successful ascent.

How challenging is climbing Mount Dhaulagiri?

Climbing Mount Dhaulagiri is exceptionally demanding, involving technical climbing skills, navigation through glaciated terrains, and coping with extreme altitudes. The mountain's remote location further intensifies the logistical complexities of the expedition.

What prior experience is necessary for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Prospective climbers should possess substantial high-altitude mountaineering experience, including successful ascents of 6,000 to 7,000-meter peaks. Proficiency in technical climbing techniques and excellent physical conditioning are imperative for this expedition.

What permits are required to climb Mount Dhaulagiri?

Climbers must obtain a climbing permit before attempting Mount Dhaulagiri, with fees varying based on the season, making spring the most expensive and winter and summer the least. Additionally, securing the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) is mandatory for the expedition.

What is the standard route for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The conventional path follows the Northeast Ridge, the same route as the first successful ascent in 1960. This approach entails establishing multiple camps above base camp to facilitate acclimatization and summit attempts.

What is the success rate for summiting Mount Dhaulagiri?

As of recent data, approximately 480 climbers have reached the summit, with a success rate of about 60%. Notably, around two-thirds of these ascents were achieved without supplemental oxygen.

How does Dhaulagiri compare to other 8,000-meter peaks like Everest or K2?

Dhaulagiri is technically more demanding than Everest but less extreme than K2. It involves steep ice walls, exposed ridges, unpredictable avalanches, and complex route navigation, making it one of the most challenging 8,000m peaks.

What is the summit success rate for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The success rate for Dhaulagiri is approximately 40-50%, lower than Everest, primarily due to weather unpredictability, technical terrain, and high-altitude risks.

What is the base camp altitude for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Dhaulagiri Base Camp sits at 4,750 meters (15,584 feet), serving as the starting point for acclimatization and establishing higher camps.

How many high camps are used in the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The Dhaulagiri Expedition typically includes four high-altitude camps along the ascent. Camp 1 (5,900m) marks the beginning of steep snow climbing, requiring technical skills. Camp 2 (6,400m) is positioned on a glacier, making it a crucial acclimatization point. Camp 3 (7,200m) is exposed to heavy winds and icy walls, increasing the difficulty of the climb. Camp 4 (7,500m) serves as the final camp before the summit push, where climbers prepare for the most challenging part of the expedition.

What technical skills are required to climb Dhaulagiri?

Climbers must be proficient in using an ice axe and climbing steep snow-covered slopes to navigate the challenging terrain. They should have crevasse rescue skills to handle potential glacier hazards safely. Experience in fixed rope climbing and abseiling is essential for ascending and descending steep sections. Additionally, they must be skilled in navigating glaciated terrain, ensuring safe movement across ice and snow-covered areas.

What are the biggest dangers of climbing Dhaulagiri?

Major risks of the Dhaulagiri Expedition include extreme altitude, which increases the likelihood of High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). Climbers also face the danger of avalanches and serac collapses, which can occur unpredictably on steep ice sections. Severe cold and frostbite pose a significant threat, especially in the higher camps and during the summit push. Additionally, high winds can reach dangerous speeds, making navigation and progress extremely challenging.

How do climbers acclimatize for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Acclimatization includes multiple rotations between Base Camp and high camps, following the "climb high, sleep low" principle to adapt gradually to the altitude.

Is supplemental oxygen used on the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

While some climbers attempt Dhaulagiri without oxygen, most use supplemental oxygen above 7,000m to improve endurance and increase summit success chances.

How is the weather on Dhaulagiri during the expedition season?

Weather conditions are highly unpredictable, with sudden storms, strong winds (over 100 km/h), and extreme cold. The temperature at the summit can drop to -40°C (-40°F).

What is the role of Sherpas in the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Sherpas assist with fixing ropes, carrying loads, establishing high camps, and guiding climbers during summit attempts.

What happens if a climber gets sick or injured on Dhaulagiri?

Minor illnesses are usually managed at Base Camp, where basic medical care is available. In cases of serious altitude sickness, an immediate descent is necessary to prevent further complications. Helicopter evacuation can be arranged only from Base Camp, but it depends on weather conditions and availability.

What is the longest and most challenging day on Dhaulagiri?

The summit push from Camp 4 (7,500m) to the summit (8,167m) and back is the most demanding, taking 14-18 hours, with steep ice climbing, extreme cold, and exhaustion.

How physically fit do I need to be for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Climbers need exceptional endurance, strength, and high-altitude conditioning. A training plan should include cardio workouts, strength training, and technical mountaineering practice.

Can I attempt the Dhaulagiri Expedition without Sherpa support?

While experienced climbers may attempt the climb independently, it is highly risky due to technical terrain, avalanche-prone areas, and extreme altitude conditions.

What is the ideal team size for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Expedition groups usually consist of 6-12 climbers, supported by guides, Sherpas, and base camp staff. Smaller teams allow for better coordination and safety.

How do climbers communicate during the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Satellite phones are used at Base Camp for external communication, allowing climbers to stay in touch with support teams and emergency services. Walkie-talkies are essential for camp-to-camp communication on the mountain, helping coordinate movements and safety updates. Additionally, GPS trackers are used to monitor team progress and location, ensuring accurate navigation and emergency response if needed.

What is the descent route after summiting Dhaulagiri?

After reaching the 8,167m summit, climbers descend back to Camp 4 for rest. The next day, they descend further to Camp 2 or Base Camp before returning to lower altitudes.

How long does the summit push on Dhaulagiri take?

The summit push from Camp 4 (7,500m) to the summit (8,167m) and back takes 12 to 16 hours, depending on weather conditions, climber endurance, and route difficulty.

What makes Dhaulagiri more dangerous than other 8,000m peaks?

Dhaulagiri is considered one of the most dangerous 8,000-meter peaks due to its steep ice sections, high avalanche risk, unpredictable weather, and the remoteness of rescue options.

How do climbers prevent snow blindness on Dhaulagiri?

Snow blindness is prevented by wearing high-altitude glacier goggles with UV protection, ensuring minimal exposure to direct sunlight and snow glare.

What alternative climbs should I consider before attempting Dhaulagiri?

For preparation, climbers should consider Manaslu (8,163m), which offers a similar altitude with fewer technical challenges, making it a good stepping stone before attempting Dhaulagiri. Ama Dablam (6,812m) is an excellent choice for technical training, as it involves steep ascents and exposed sections. Cholatse (6,440m) provides valuable experience in navigating exposed ridges and ice climbing, helping climbers develop essential mountaineering skills for higher peaks.

review

Adriana Chavez

United States

The experience of climbing Ama Dablam in Nepal with Protrek Adventure was fantastic! All of our Sherpa guides were wonderful, and they went above and beyond to help us reach our goals. (All of the members reached the summit!). It was our expedition leader’s 12th summit on Ama Dablam, and I had absolute confidence in his abilities.

Protrek Adventure’s hospitality is what sets them apart from other tour operators. The people working on the ground in Kathmandu were outstanding in their professionalism and friendliness. Everything was done to ensure that our stay was enjoyable and that the amenities met high standards. Whenever we had a question, they were there to answer it promptly and patiently.

The booking process went smoothly. Prior to the trip, each of us had a one-on-one phone conversation in which we learned about the training, gear, and other aspects of the trip. It was wonderful to have the opportunity to ask personal questions regarding the trip.

During the course of the hike, we were provided with the most helpful and professional support staff that anyone could ask for. The porters and guides took excellent care of us and were extremely knowledgeable about the terrain. The best food one could expect at such high altitudes made a big difference on this trip.

Overall, I had a fantastic time on the trip, and I would absolutely recommend going with Protrek Adventure!!

Marco Regolizzo

Italy

After speaking with numerous tour operators in Nepal, I decided on Protrek Adventure for my Ama Dablam expedition. This trip with Protrek has been an absolute joy, and I can’t say enough good things about them. Everything was so well planned and organized from beginning to end.

Multiple emails were exchanged with Dawa in the office, and every one of my inquiries was thoroughly answered. Following the email conversations, there were more interactions on a call in which their team assisted me in sorting out and organizing all of my climbing gear.

Because Ama Dablam is a notoriously difficult and technical peak, it was critical that I double-check all of my gear before landing in Kathmandu. Pre-expedition training and preparation were made much easier for me by the Protrek team. Dawa and Viji, thank you so much for your help.

We did a lot of training at base camp, which helped us a lot for the climbing that was to come. It would not have been possible without Dorjee Sherpa, our guide, and Suren Rai, our porter. Special thanks to Sandeep for guiding us through all of the logistics and providing us with the best experience ever.

I would strongly recommend Protrek Adventure to anyone interested in peak climbing in Nepal. Their level of service, professionalism, and attention to detail made this trip the best it could have been.

Tracey Jones

United States

This was the best adventure I’ve ever been on in Nepal. With Protrek Adventure, I did the Ama Dablam Climb in the Himalayan Mountains. When it came to planning my trip, they were the best teammates I could have asked for. The successful ascent was made possible thanks to my guide Phurba Sherpa, who also assisted with my training by leading me through each campsite.

It would have been impossible without Sandeep’s knowledge and expertise, which allowed me to go into the mountains with complete confidence. I also want to thank Dawa, Manoj, and Viji for their help before I landed in Kathmandu. You guys are amazing! See you on the next one!

Alberto Benetti

Italy

I was able to share my dream of climbing Manaslu with my daughter. With Protrek Adventure, we both made it to the summit of Manaslu. Logistics, camp services, and Sherpa guides are all top notch, and they all work well together. I want to say thank you to everyone who helped me during the expedition, which made it possible for me to get to the top. It truly is a dream come true. Thank you for your guidance Sandeep, your knowledge helped us plan the expedition well and arrive prepared. Highly recommended.

Nick Travers

United States

Best place for real adventure! I climbed Manaslu last season with this amazing team. Highly recommend them for expeditions in the Himalayas. They also guide you with all necessary gears which is great. Their first hand knowledge of the mountains is unmatchable.

Nikita Otukuv

Russia

Very pleased with the company went with these guys to Island Peak
Many thanks to Fura Sherpa.
And also Viji, who helped to implement everything at the highest level.
You guys are great 👍🙌

(Original)
Очень доволен компаний сходил с этими ребятами на Айленд пик
Огромное спасибо шерпу Фура.
А также Виджи, которая помогла все реализовать на высшем уровне.
Ребята вы супер 👍🙌

Paul Bonhomme

France

I went on the Island Peak climb with Protrek last spring and had a great time. For the trip to Nepal, I was travelling with my climbing partner. We had an excellent experience hiking with this fantastic group of people. They were extremely professional, and their expertise was evident in their work. The camping facilities were excellent, as was the food. Even at such high altitudes, our camp staff did an excellent job and served us delicious food. Phurba is a knowledgeable and approachable guide. Thank you for guiding us all the way to the summit. It was a truly special moment at the summit. This was my first high-altitude adventure, as well as my first 6000-meter peak. I’m glad I did it with the best team. Thank you so much guys! See you soon on another incredible adventure.

Lary Alexander

Russia

I climbed Lobuche Peak in Nepal with Protrek Adventure during the autumn season. Excellent logistics, helpful staff, knowledgeable guides and a stunning mountain combine to make this one of my favourite expeditions. Highly recommend Protrek Adventure for adventures in Nepal. It was an experience I will never forget. Thank you Dawa and Nuru for the guicance and support. You guys made this adventure enjoyable from start to finish.